D62- Orongorongo river to Turakirae head

Im blessed with perfect weather again for my final day. Continuing downriver, it opens up to the extent that 4wd can access from the beach, the flow becomes lost in the expanse of gravel. In many ways my last major river is a mirror imagae of the first. After 2km i take the Mt Mathews track on the true left. Its easy to miss if you're on the wrong side of the river, marker poles lead up the initaly dry bed of the Mathews stream. At the second forks a well maintained track climbs the steep spur between them. Its a bit of a slog, but my last climb so im not complaining. The Mt Mathews summit is an extra 2hrs (one way), so i dont bother, instead taking the track marked coast, which siddles to South saddle (545m).
South saddle sits in open tussock, with good veiws to the Orongorongo and the coast. Its all downhill from here. Passing the saddle marks my final crossing of the main devide. The track descends steeply into the head of the Mukamuka stream, where it stops with occasional markers continuing downstream to the coast. It starts off quite small and scrubby but soon opens out into vast shingle flats. By the time it reaches the mouth its 100's of metres across and the stream has become dry. Huge scree slopes drop into the stream on either side with occasional costal scrub clinging to the stable bits.
Reaching the beach is a milestone, being the first time I've seen the sea since Waiapu. Unlike the Rakumaras where there was a 3 day walk from ranges to sea, here the mountains drop right down to the coast. A quick dip is high on my priorities.
From here it's only 10km of coastline between me and Turakirae. A 4wd track runs above the high tide mark, removing the need to walk on the rocky beach. A doc sighn marks the start of the Wild coast track, and for the first time i see the words Turakirae head. The beach supposedly passes through a working farm, tho all i saw was a few undocked, sheep in costal scrub. Rounding windy point, the coastline changes from stony beaches and dunes to bolders and swamp. I wasn't intending to make it all the way today, i just got carried away when the head came into veiw. I pass Burneys Whare, private and locked, you probably could camp outside but the sandflies are terrible.
Approaching the head, the walking track leaves the 4wd track, taking a separate route closer to the coast. There's nothing to identify Turakirae head itself, and to most people its probably insigficant, but to me its the most important spot in the world right now. Almost running, i scamble across large bolders and lumps of bedrock, taking the reef which sticks out as far south as i can. It would be nice if there was a lighthouse to aim for, but instead i head for the furthest south point on the head without going in the water. Done.  From here the range ive been faithfully following drops below the sea level, only to resurface again in the Marlborough sounds. Im not sure how long i should stay here to justify the effort in getting here, i decide an hour should be surficent. I crack open the Ruatoria jet planes to celebrate. The weather is for once perfect for the occasion.
Finally leaving the rock, i continue around the head towards the road end ready to hitch out tommorow. The rocks turn back to dunes and i find a spot to camp amongst them. Its fitting that both my first and last nights were camped on the beach. There's a  beautiful sunset over the mainland as i set up my final camp on the beach.

D61- Wairongomai hut to Orongorongo river

Leaving my last hut behind, i head briefly upstream, turning left up Oreore stream for 300m to the first major forks. At the forks i head up the steep but obvious spur between them. It starts off in quite tropical bush, nikau palms, ferns and tangled with supple jack, the weather's pretty tropical to, in the way of temperature not monsoons for once.
It soon enters open beech and excellent game trails make easy work of the 300m climb to the top. Feeling a bit groggy still i take it slow. At the top it flattens out into a bit of a plautoe, with no obvious feature to follow i head SW for 1km to the unobvious Wairongomai saddle. Two small creeks are crossed, only 1 show on the map, both flowing east into the head of the Oreore.
From the saddle you could drop down into the head of the Orongorongo NE branch, but it would likely be small and scrubby at this stage. I continue SW along the developing ridgeline to pt 480, then drop down the spur to the west, meeting the creek at the first fork on the true left.
It's much more pleasant then the other Rimutaka streams, with travel easy going on bush flats or in the small gravel bed. There's plenty of campspots here if u needed one. A set of antlers hanging off a tree indicate it's accessible by humans or the deer are very stupid. Its about 1km to the confluence with the Orongorongo main branch.
The Orongorongo river is bigger but just as easy, travel alternates between bush flats or shingle/bolders. There's a bit of wading and bolders hopping but nothing tricky. I pass a small hunters hut in thr bush, a bit rugged but functional, with 2 bunks a dirt floor and open fire. About 4km down i hit an atv track which siddles the river, crossing twice for 1.5km. It passes a weir and small building, following a pipeline supplying water to Wainuiomata. It's of course authorised access only, but i don't see the sighn untill the end, and there no one ever there by the look of it. The pipeline and track dissappear into a long, locked tunnel so I retern to the riverbed.
Its much the same as before, tho now scattered with human artifacts, steel, planks etc. Eventually i meet the confluence with boulder creek, and the Papatahi track, crossing the range from east to west. An obvious sign here states no unauthorised access upriver due to being a catchment area, tho ive seen several boot marks so either- whoevers authorised regularly checks for naughty hunters, or more likely- no one cares.
From here the nature of the valley changes, it becomes a wide expanse of shingle and large bolders, the surrounding peaks also change. One might think getting closer to sea, the rolling bush clad hill would get smaller and fade out- not in the Rimutaka's. They rise into much higher, jagged peaks, with the higher slopes too steep to support anything but scree and scrub.
I pick a perfect camspot on a terrace above the river, being on the eastern bank i get the last of the evening sun and it warm enough for a recreational swim for once.

D60- Sick day

I should be finished by now. Im feeling a lot better than yesterday, just weak having not eaten in 24 hrs. Im still barely touching my food which dosent help. Its a shame to waste a good weather day but what can you do? It's nice however to sit in the sun

D59- Sick day

I didn't expect to be going anywhere today. Its Pissing down in the morning anyway so i haven't missed much. Ive only 2-3 days walking left but am less confident than ever about making it. When i final drag myself down to the river for water it's risen, very glad im not in the canyon now.

D58- Pakaratahi Headwaters to Wairongomai hut

I awoke in the night feeling terrible, severe chest pain and sick as a dog, im not sure what's caused it but im almost reaching for the PLB. Im a lot better in the morning, but still in no fit state to tackle the days challenges. Its only 7km today but it takes me more than that in hours. From the forks, i head up the unmarked spur, it starts off open bush but soon becomes thick head height scrub and very slow going. At the saddle, i swing E, aiming for Bawbaw, it soon becomes too steep and scrubby, so i siddle the southern face, just below the scrub untill i reach the second spur heading SW into the Wairongomai. The spurs not obvious to start with, and trying to stay on it is the main navigational challenge. I frequently take faulse spurs, requiring steep climbs back to the correct one. I should be tucked up in bed today, not doing this. A light drizzel adds to the scene. The last 500m becomes well defined and a good game trail leads down to the Wairongomai, dropping in just above the 3rd forks from the headwaters.
It starts off tight and scrubby, with one fall requiring a difficult climb around. Follows an easy section of bolders and shingle. After this it plunges into a series of canyons. A 3-4m fall requires a climb around but after that the sides become unsiddleable and everything must be tackled in the flow. There were on obvious escape routes if things went wrong or the river rose. A couple of deep sections required short swims, plus a couple of Shutes to slide down, travel upsteam would be almost impossible. Sevral logjams provided challenging downclimbs, while other provided invaluable log bridges.
For the final 500m it opens up into broad shingle. The hut sits above the river on the true right and is easy to miss. An arrow points to a short track leading to the hut, but is more visable heading upstream. Wairongomai hut is an older style nzfs hut, with 4 bunks, an open fire and water from the river. Looking through the book, the route i came down is known as Eager Beaver canyon, and is tackled by experienced canyoneers, with ropes and wetsuits, not crook trampers.
After lighting the fire i sit down only to wake up again just on dusk feeling terrible. Its rained again and my sleeping bag which was left outside for last nights condensation to dry is now soaked. A trip to the river for water takes everything I've got. I daren't eat anything in case it comes back out, and go to bed with a bowl and PLB, neither get used.

D57- Pakaratahi river to Pakaratahi headwaters

I wasn't expecting today to be easy. Heading upstream i immediately encounter a gourge, it's way to cold to swim this early so i climb around on tge the true right. Once back in the river, its reasonable going for the next few kms, some open shingle, some bush flats and some wading. When flowing its actually quite a small river but for most of its flow its still, almost stagnant, creating deep pools. Most of these were siddleable but getting back into the river prooved quite tricky.  One gourge i got too committed and ended up with a short swim.
Further upstream the sides become steeper and harder to siddle, small falls and logjams appear making very slow progress. Its much reminiscent of the Rakumaras, just much colder.
A 3m fall prooves unpassable and requires a steep climb over a knob to the east. I end up siddleing a flat terrace for some time to keep out of the water, it finally becomes too steep and im faced with a slippery descent back to the river. Im not exactly sure what happened next, only im falling, then im on the rocks below, followed by a shower of forest floor litter. Quick checkover- nothing broken, just a bruised knee, ripped pants(again), and quite shaken. It could of been much worse, looking back ive slid about 3m with the last 1 being vertical.
It would be nice to stop and rest, only there's been no where flat enough to pitch the bivvi the whole way, leaving no choice but to keep going. Upstream the river begins to fork, the flow can't be much more than a good hose, however it still manages to be deeper than me in places. Waterfall and log jams become more frequent, each requiring climbing in the flow. Eventually i end up at the last major forks, splitting SW, SE, with an obvious spur rising to baw bab saddle.
As promised there's a flat spot in the bush between the forks, the remains of a ground sheet suggest im not the first to use it. Perfect would be an overstatement, as would flat, but after that day, at almost dusk im very pleased to see it. Priorities- shelter, fire, food, sleep. #2 being the hardest and #4 the easiest.

D56- Tutuwai hut to Pakaratahi river

Today was the long day i needed after spending most of the last week hanging around in huts, and for once it was perfect weather for it. The pleasent walk continues beside the river heading downstream. Its a good track and the miles roll by quick. A new suspension bridge crosses the main river, well used by people and possums, then a single wire crosses the Merchant stream. 20 mins later is Smiths stream shelter. It's not as bad as its rep and would be ok in good weather, there's no windows or door but a good roof and walls, no mattress but a solid sleeping platform.
Carring on, the track leaves the river, following Smiths stream, a well benched track then swithbacks to puffer saddle. Whilst its not a big climb, it does cross the main devide via the low point between the Tararua's and Rimutaka's. Once at the top, mature podocarp gives way to gourse and scrub, theres occasional veiws to the Rimutaka's and the highway. A short drop down to the carpark at kiwi ranch road marks the end of my Taruarua traverse. Im not blown away by the Tararua's (not metephoricaly anyway), if you include drizzel, its rained all 11 of the full days ive spent in the range, even on the 1 fine afternoon on the tops its only a repeat of the Ruahines, just muddier.
There's not much on Kiwi ranch, a YMCA center and a few lifestyle blocks, i find my last food drop burried on the lifestyle block, with permission of course, the owners arnt in but fortunately im able to recharge my phone at the YMCA. Checking the forecast ive got a fine windows to do the difficult section of the Rimutaka's. The Rimutaka's are my last range, yet possibly the most difficult, there's no track running north-south and the ridgeline is below the bush- my traverse involves mainly rivers and saddles, it will be slow going and challenging, a slip up here could still end the trip, then id have to start again from East Cape. There's only 2 public huts in the range, and ill only pass one, so a few nights in the biv will be req.
At the end of Kiwi ranch, i turn left into Marchant rd for 2km to the SH2 ( Rimutaka Road). From here its a short but unpleasant 500m along the 2, crossing the Pakaratahi and turning left into Gilbert road. I was expecting to be able to acess the Rimutaka rail trail from here but instead it ends in private farm houses, no choice but drop into the river. It starts off open shingle, but soon becomes hemmed in by blackberry on either side, leaving the only way forward wading up the river. I can see the rail trail on the true left, i just can't get to it.
Its a slow 2.5 km upstream before i find a route through the blackberry leading up to the trail. The Rimutaka rail trail following the old path of the railway before it was tunneld right through the range. Its easy walking and popular with cyclists. Its starts off in pine and regen scrub, but eventually becomes mature bush. I pass a designated campsite, but its only 4.30, and i really need to get up the river more, to make tommorow easier. There's a short tunnel and a few bridges before the trail leaves the Pakaratahi and follows a small creek to the east, its not obvious and i missed it the first time. Its too steep to drop into the Pakaratahi itself, so i drop into the side creek and follow it through a short canyon to the main river. Theres nowhere obvious to camp heading upstream and the only place i found was a small patch of sand that required serious excavation to allow for a bivvi site, its only inches above the water so better not flood. Its a perfect evening for a night out, without a cloud or breath of wind.

D55- Neil forks hut to Tutuwai hut

I wouldn't describe it as a cracker of a morning, however its not raining and ive got dry gear which is about as good as it gets. From the hut, the track briefly follows Neil creek before a 600m slog to cone ridge. Turning right i meander along the ridgeline untill Mt Cone which pops out just above the tree line. At the ironic spot height of 1080m, its my last Taruarua peak. There's a radio mast along with an engineer and idling chopper at the summit. The sun pops out very briefly, attempting to get some vital charge into my phone, i find the chargers faulty, without navigation i can't do the Rimutaka's.
Descending cone, i reach a cross roads and take the signed track to Cone hut, beside the Tauhereniukau river. Cone hut is a historic toatra slab design much like the ones built in Urewera, theres 4 bunks an open fire and a long walk to the river for water.
Its only an hour to Tutuwai, a track follows broad flats beside the river on the true left, through grassy terraces and podocarp forest. The river is unlike most in the Tararua's, being open and shingle, tho like most in the area its flow is more than its catchment size would suggest- cant think why.
Tutuwai is located on a terrace above the river. A large 20bunk with a woodburner and tank. Its classified as serviced, but what the service is is unclear, its not fuel or a saw to cut it with, possibly the locked wardens apartment. Its only 3.30 so ive got a bit of time to kill without moving on to the derilct Smith steam shelter. Its not really swimming weather, but i decide a wash is in order in case i have to go into houses tommorow at Merchant road to charge my phone. Hanging the charger above a candle for a while, im able to get some life out of it,  so suspect moisture ingress- it supposedly works underwater. It does need to be held in a certain position, so strapped to my pack wont work. Just as im about to celebrate the first full day without rain in the Tararua's, a light drizzel sets in.

D54- Mangahuka hut Niel Forks hut

The next section of tops between Mangahuka and Kime is known as the southern crossing. The topography creates winds exeding elsewhere in the range, on top of that the ridgeline gets steeper, a steel ladder provides acess between 2 otherwise unpassable peaks. If anything the conditions have deteriorated overnight so instead i take the escape route to Niel Forks on the shelterd easten side.
Putting on wet clothes is less than pleasent, even less pleasent is the first km back on the exposed ridge before the spur drops to the SE. Once below the tree line the wind stops, its a relatively easy 1000m drop down to the Hector river, it just goes on a bit, the vegetation changes from goblin forest to beech and final podocarp. A swing bridge crosses the river to Niel Forks hut, located beside the confluence with Niel creek. At just over 300m, its sea level as far as im concerned tho im still cold from wearing wet clothes. Its about as typical as they get, former nzfs with a deck and woodstove added, there's 6 bunks and water from the river. The rain eases to showers.
Its only 12.30 but pushing onto Cone would only give me a really short day tommorow so instead i get the fire going and dry gear. After 2 nights without fire its wonderful.

D53- Bad Weather day

Im in a bit of a pickle. The weather's unchanged from yesterday and with all my dry clothes wet there's no way im going back out in the wind and rain, however staying here without a fire they'll never dry. The majority of the day is spent wrapped in a blanket, attempting to stitch what's left of my pants untill i run out of thread. Despite my dedicated needlework it looks like ill be walking the Rimutaka's in undies. After a second dinner of scroggin im craving rise.

D52- Andersons memorial hut to Mangahuka hut

The Tararua's are back to their usual self- gales and clag. From Andersons the ridge line stays below the tree line for 2km. One back into open country im hit by the real force of tge the weather. The wind whipped and the rain came again. Im frequently cluthing onto clumps of tussock to prevent being blown off the ridge.
About half way i pass the junction to Aokaperangi hut, i consider the half hour detour for a break from thr weather but it would only prolong the misery. It soon becomes the worst conditions I've walked in. Im wearing every layer I've got but despite the exertion im still loosing heat. I cant fight the wind any more and end up siddleing the shelterd easten side through thick leatherwood scrub. I fall waist deep into a tarn i couldn't see through the mist. Something looks unusual at the far end, i don't realise what it is untill i just about walk straight into Mangahuka hut. Mangahuka's reasonably flash, and has been recently built/replaced( they don't last long up here). There's 10 bunks a large deck and a tank but it misses one critical aspect- a fire. Being at 1330m, there'd  be nothing to burn even if you did fancy your chances at getting a fire going outside. Im not too worried about cooking with enough dry food to eat, more of a concern is not being able to dry out soaked clothing. By the time i reach the hut im shivering uncontrollably, its 2pm but theres nothing realy to do but crawl into the sleeping bag to keep warm. With the amount of people that snuff it from hypothermia around here, a coal fire would be nice. I wake up 6 hrs later and not suprisingly can't sleep through the night.

D51- Dracophyllum hut to Andersons memorial hut

Im in a bit of a mess. My pants are ripped to the point of being almost shorts, socks are burnt, everything's thick with mud. Having not washed properly sinse the Ngaruroro im getting a bit feral. With a flat headlight and my only candle burnt ive got no way of seeing after dark, which is coming increasingly earlier each day. On top of that its still raining for the seventh consecutive day.
Continuing south along the ridge, it hovers around the tree line for what seems like forever. The drizzel stops and the clouds very slowly part. By the time i finally emerge into open tussock the suns out. Having not seen a blue sky sinse coppermine It's amazing. The phones soon back to life and i know exactly where i am, where im going and what the weather's going to do, which isn't good news. After one short peak, Nicholls hut is found on the east. There's 6 bunks a tank and a fire, but being above the tree line there's little to burn. It sits on the TA trail so gets a lot of use. The area south of here has been recently 1080'd and the absence of the usual hunters is noticeable through the book.
From here the ridge climbs up to Mt Crawford(1462). The clouds just about gone and i get my first glimpse of the west coast as well as good veiws out to the Wairarapa. Ruapehu pokes out above the clouds now in the distance north and a high range to the south has me confused for the longest time untill i realise im looking at the Marlborough sounds.
At the next peak, junction knob, the TA heads west leaving a less trampled, less muddy ridge. It an hours gentle descent to Andersons at the bush line- easy. Andersons Memorial hut is architecturally identical to Nicholls, being west facing, one would expect it to suffer the wind, but this evening it basks in the glorious evening sunshine.

D50- Mangahao Flats hut to Dracophyllum hut

Its not raining. Its grey and miserable and the forests saturated but its good to be moving. The well maintained track continues upstream, the sides become steeper and there's a few climbs around slips and bluffs. About an hour up the river forks and an unbridged crossing required. It's back to normal flows and the bolders are suprisingly grippy, having had a good sandblast. After a second forks, the main flow is crosses before a short climb to Griddlestone saddle.
At the saddle i take a left turn to
Pukematawai peak. With no maps to look at im just guessing from names that sound familiar. Its not too steep, but its a long slog with a heavy pack. Im treated to a white sky for 30min before the fog rolls in and visablility is reduced to a few metres. At 1432m, Pukematawai is well above the tree line and my first Tararua summit. There's a moderate wind and a light drizzel but its the best days weather sinse Woodville. From the summit i head south along the main range, its polled with a well worn, muddy foot track. Eventually the track dips beneath the tree line, an hour later Dracophyllum hut is reached.
There's only 2 bunks and its closer to a bivvi box than a hut, the difference is its higher and thr bunks are stacked, making room for a small bench. There no fireplace, so an external fire is required, in these conditions its again challenging and uses up my only fireligher and candle. If i could have any two things other than sun it would be fireligher and phone batteries.

D49- Bad Weather day

Its the same again. There's only about 10 days walking left but it could easily take me twice that with the weather. By mid afternoon it reduces to a drizzel and the river drops significantly. The tracks still flooded but at least im able to get out and pick up the driftwood left by the flood for the next lot.

D48- Bad Weather day

Its still pissing down in the morning thobit must of eased overnight as the rivers dropped well over a meter. There's not much to do other than dry out gear and watch it rise again. The highlight of the day is watching a fire circle on a grassy terrace above the river get washed away.

D47- Burton's Whare site to Mangahao flats hut.

I can't say im enjoying the Tararua's so far, tho today was worse than the last 2 combined. It's not actually raining in the morning tho it looks like it wants to. By 10-30 it gets it's wish. From the Whare site, the track continues south as a benched pack track.  It soon leaves the podocarp forest and enters scrub and grass. There's a rotting tin shelter here that could be used if you had to tho it'd be pretty grim. After 2 hours it turns into a muddy 4wd track which leads to the
Tokomaro road end. Its about a km to the Mangahao road which siddles the Mangahao river passing dams #3, #2 and #1, repectively. Dam #3 looks almost empty. From here the TA turns right down a tramping track but i continue to the road end which takes forever. Dam#2 is full to the brim, creating a long fingerlake, its hard to judge the river level between dams but it looks worringly high. The road ends at dam #1, the river level can't be seen beyond the resivour.
Crossing the levy wall i find my penultimate food drop after 40mins digging through mud and rocks in the pissing rain. Im ahead of progress and still have surplus food from Woodville, the result a very heavy pack but enough food for 2-3 days rest. Given the Tararua weather it may be worth the wait/weight.
Recrossing the dam, a track siddles on the true left. There's no sighn, and with my phone flat after 4 days of no sun, ive no idear of distance. What i do know is its now 3pm and with my headlight also flat i won't be walking after dark. I assumed it would be a riverbed route above the dam, however the siddle track continues to the hut. The muds in a different league, usually above the knees. A swing bridge crossesthe river a third of the way up, the rivers already in flood and fast becoming uncrossable. The next time i see it, it's a monster, a raging torrent carrying logs, rolling bolders downstream.  Waterfall spring from every surface, even out of the trees. The track itself becomes a river. A sign indicates a river route or high route, is obvious which i take.
Another bridge crosses the river and it seems to have dropped, until i realise it's a mere side stream. Finally upon dusk, the hut clearing comes into veiw, along with a final obstacle- an unbridged stream. It turns out to be only waist deep but theres no way of telling through the muddy flow.
Mangahao hut's pretty flash, tho anything would of been after that day. There's 16 bunks, a woodburner and a plumbed in sink, there's even enough dry wood for a fire.

D46- Hardings park to Burton's Whare site.

There's a strong wind in the morning, but it's mostly dry other than a constant drizzel and a few regular showers, finally by 9am the rain sets in. At the end of the trap line is a PNCC tramping track, an area known as Hardings park. Its recently developed and again not marked on the map. From the junction signs lead to 'carpark' and 'loop'. Following my route guide of a previous trampers experience i left onto loop. It climbs onto open scrub and heads along the main range. Eventually it swings back north in a loop. A track or stoat line supposedly continues south here but in the poor visablility i dont find it. Im not bush bashing in this and continue north where i reach a junction and a map of Hardings park. After 4 hours of rain wind and mud im almost back where i started.
From here i change my horse and take the sledge track which drops steeply off the range to the Kahuterawa stream. Once off the range the rain stops. Here a benched track siddles the true right NW to the road end.
Its here that my route merges with the Te Aroha trail (TA). The TA is a continuous trail running from Cape Regina to Bluff. Whilst a lot of the route covers less interesting terrain, what it does provide is a marked route and legal access across private land. Crossing a bridge over the stream, TA follows 'Back track', a well maintained route through podocarp forest, instead i follow zig zig road though post logging wasteland, saving 30 mins. The area is PNCC owned, but sinse logging has been put aside for recreational purpose. There's a carpark at the end of Scotts road which is open for vehicle access. I follow this for a few days through farmland,  turning left at the intersection. A locked gate stands at the entrance to private forestry with a no entry without permit sighn, however being on the TA grants legal walking access. Markers guide the way through a series of logging roads then a muddy 4wd track to the 'Burton's track', and the start of the Tararua forest park. The rain reterns after a 2 hour drought.
The track winds its way through thick mud and podocarp forest before crossing a stream then siddleing the Tokomaro river. 2 crossings are required heading upstream, its discoulerd from the rain but only knee deep. Meeting a local possumer im told its rained all summer.
Shortly after the second crossing i reach the burtons whare site. The whare's long gone but left is a flat grassy clearing making a perfect campspot. The rains stopped but firelighting is no easier than the previous night.

D45- Manawatu gourge reserve to Hardings park

There's a light drizzel in the morning so i get in an early pack up just as it starts to rain. Time to tackle the Tararua's. I've heard the Tararua's described as the Ruahines on steroids. Theres potentially the windiest spot in the country and being on the west coast they get a wee bit of rain. On an average year they receive 40 fine days, but none are forecast. Being close to a large population base they're one of the more visited wildernesses in the country, they frequently take lives.
Im expecting no water supply for the first leg so ive scavenging extra bottles from the roadside and refill them from the tank. Im dubious about the supply, expecting it's from the effluent rich Manawatu, but theres not much choice.
Continuing on gourge road i turn right up Hall block which climbs steeply, siddleing a valley head. Crossing a small stream, i dump the cow shit and refill. At the top it turns into north range road, it passes through the Tararua wind farm but with the weather i can bearly see the top of the turbines. There should be good veiws out to Palmy, but with the Manawatu weather they're only theoretical. The road becomes privately owned by the power company and legal access continues along a muddy 4wd track first on the west then the east before rejoining the road.
North range road finishes at the busy Pahiatua road which crosses the range. South range road continues on the far side. Further down the road, a sigh reads 'permit required', tho I've read at the other end it says 'keep to the track'. The land is PNCC owned and forms the catchment area for the city's water supply. Contamination and public health are stated as the reason for no entry, as notice beside warns of poison dropped in the area- good look ah.
South range road seems to go on forever through ex forestry scrub. As the road turns west a trap line marked H1 continues south. There not marked on my map but are briefly described in my route guides. Frequent checking of gps is required despite diminishing battery power. Knowledge is power- Power is knowledge.
It crosses a tributary then Otangane stream, i was hoping to find a campsite here but no such luck. I had no idear how far id get today, the result- ive covered miles but end up at 7.30 setting up in a saturated muddy forest. A matress of ferns helps keep me out of the water. I had pretty much decided a fire was out of the equation, tho through perseverance, probably luck and the superior burning quality of tawa i blaze is established. It would have to go down as the hardest fire ive ever lit, tho with a good fuel stack drying its not too bad. I had condemned the evening to one of cold oats and and an early night in wet clothes, instead I've got boiled rice and burnt socks

D44- Coppermine stream to Manawatu Gourge reserve

From the creek, signed tracks lead to coppermine road (30min), or Wharite(3hrs), although coppermine road would provide the most direct route to Woodville, i considered Wharite to be an essential waypoint, being the southern most peak in the Ruahine. As per normal, my last track in the Ruahine starts with a steep climb from the riverbed. It levels off before climbing again to whats left of the main devide, now a single, leatherwood ridge. The track then follows the ridge for its final km to Wharite(920m). The Wharite tower is huge, tho in the thick fog i cant see the top, its pylon shaped and rigged with communication equipment. Two concrete buildings and a car park sit beside. On my last visit there were extensive veiws out to the Tararua's, Manawatu and towards Wellington, however all i see is white. It needless to say it's also pretty windy.
Wharite marks the end of my Ruahine traverse, from here the Manawatu cuts right through the main devide, creating a band of towns and farmland, the result, a lot of road walking. Its about 13km to Woodville, but its all downhill and goes quickly. Wharite road descends through scrub to the park boundry where it continues through farmland, once below the clouds, theres resonable veiws across to the windmills. Once onto the flats, it becomes sealed with paddock after paddock of dairy farms on either side, even the mailboxes are made to look like cows. The roads around Woodville are in grid formation, and by turning left down Oxford then right down Mclain, i avoid an unnecessary walk on the state highway. The roads become wider and busier, the verges mown, and the drivers stop waving back.
For some reason, i assumed there was a New World here, but theres only a four square tho at the price i was almost considering the 2 day walk to Palmy. Fortunately they're open on a Sunday avo. After restocking provisions, and a quick bite to eat, it's time to get the hell out of town.
From Woodville there's no choice but to walk the SH3 (Napier to Plalmerston), there's a motocross event on and its busy, the least pleasent road bash yet. On a narrow section it becomes too dangerous to walk beside the road so i follow the railway instead. I turn left down Gourge road and cross the bridge over the Manawatu. The rivers bigger than i was expecting, comparable to the Motu/Mohaka, and im greatfull for the bridge.
The Manawatu Gourge seinic reserve sits beside the river, an area of original, uncleared tawa forest. There's a network of high standard walking tracks, the longest of which runs the lenth of the gourge. It would be nice to include it in this trip but unfortunately it runs perpendicular to my direction of travel.
I pick an a mown grassy area beside the road to camp. There's a playground, picknick tables and toilets, but a water tank and barbecue seal the deal. Its got a 'no camping', vibe to it but no sighn to stop me. The roads quiet and no one seems to stop. Ive got time for a swim but its just too cold and windy so instead i take one of the short walks through the Tawa.

Day 43- Kiritaki hut to Coppermine stream

I could of pushed on to Woodville today, tho it would of been a long day and potentially left me in the town with nowhere to camp, so i decide to drag it out over 2 days. Given it a half day i have a lie in and a cooked breakfast with the hunters. The wind has completely stoped and been replaced with thick fog, tho it later burns off.
From the hut its a short climb before droping down to another rocky Ruahine riverbed- Raparapawai stream. Following it downstream for 2.5km, a steep track leads up to a ridgeline. It drops slightly to a scrubby, muddy slip where it stops. From here im left to pick a way downhill untill it opens up to a steep side creek which can be followed to the Mangaatua stream. There's a good campspot in here, tucked onto a terrace, tho im keen to get to the next vally. The next bit a repeat of the last, going downsteam to a track which is climbs steeply up then steeply down to the Coppermine stream.
I pass the remains of Coppermine hut, a concrete fire base in a small scrubby clearing, this was my first option for a campspot tonight but its uneven and a long walk to the stream for water. Scouting the creek up and down its narrow, bouldery and offers no hope of a campspot. The only viable option seems to be camp on the track it's self. The area's popular with day walkers who probably wouldn't approve of such activities, so i leave setting up camp till later and explore the short walk to the mine. The mine itself is very unimpressive, its been filled in and there's no evidence of its existence other than a sign. A short tunnel a bit further back is known as the magazine, a short, wet hole with wetas on the ceiling.
Its not the perfect spot to camp, but is the perfect night at least, still, clear and warm, something very rare in the Ruahines.

D42- Cattle Creek hut to Kiritaki hut

The winds still going for it in the morning. Climbing back up to the ridge, the track enters public land and is maintained. After a couple of kms it drops steeply to the Tamiki river, 300m downstream on the true right is Stanfield hut. Its architecturally simular to Cattle Creek tho gets a lot more use. The Tamiki river is only a small trickle over a wide shingle bed. The vegetation is mainly scrub with a few podocarps, occasional stands of pine and further downstream willow and poplar. Its an easy 4km downstream to the Tamiki road campsite. It would make a nice spot if you needed it. There's a shelter, toilets, a large fireplace and a barbecue. There's no vehicle access so it doesn't get too much use. From here I take the Roki track. More of a walking track id image its more popular with families than trampers. It heads through mature forest over a saddle to the Rokaiwhana stream and stops. The Roki is another broad shingle bed, and its an easy 2km downstream to farmland.
There's no obvious options for this next section. There's no track linking the southern Ruahine with the rest of the range and the tops are in unpassable leatherwood scrub. I decided to follow the park boundry south for 4 km. For most of the way its possible to walk along the doc side of the fence, keeping it legal, it crosses 3 gullys so there's a few up and downs. After the last valley the fenceline becomes steep and scrubby on either side and its necessary to cut east through farmland. It soon flatens out so I cross back over where its a short bush bash to the Mangapuaka stream.
The southern Ruahines are unlike the rest of the range, the main ridgeline is thick leatherwood and the lower slopes are furny scrub. Fortunately, theres a route from here to the end, consisting of well maintained tracks and boldery streams. There was once a network of huts but now only 1 remains.
Heading upstream against the wind i meet the start of the track to Kiritaki on the true right. It states 5-6hrs, given its 4pm already it beter be lying. There's no where to camp in the rocky river bed and with the wind it would be no fun at all.
It starts with a steep climb to a ridge which climbs gradualy to Matanginui (1074). There's good veiws east to Dannevegas and south over the endless leather leaf of the southern Ruahine. Wharite tower can be seen, only a small spike in the distance. From here it heads south before dropping very steeply down to a knarly creek whick is followed briefly before climbing steeply again to Kiritaki hut. 3.5 hrs sighn to hut.
A tidy 6 bunk, its maintained by local hunters in conjunction with doc. The woodburner,s 'condemned' due to a split in thr flue (im sure it would be fine), but theres a gas cooker instead.

D42- Cattle Creek hut to Kiritaki hut

The winds still going for it in the morning. Climbing back up to the ridge, the track enters public land and is maintained. After a couple of kms it drops steeply to the Tamiki river, 300m downstream on the true right is Stanfield hut. Its architecturally simular to Cattle Creek tho gets a lot more use. The Tamiki river is only a small trickle over a wide shingle bed. The vegetation is mainly scrub with a few podocarps, occasional stands of pine and further downstream willow and poplar. Its an easy 4km downstream to the Tamiki road campsite. It would make a nice spot if you needed it. There's a shelter, toilets, a large fireplace and a barbecue. There's no vehicle access so it doesn't get too much use. From here I take the Roki track. More of a walking track id image its more popular with families than trampers. It heads through mature forest over a saddle to the Rokaiwhana stream and stops. The Roki is another broad shingle bed, and its an easy 2km downstream to farmland.
There's no obvious options for this next section. There's no track linking the southern Ruahine with the rest of the range and the tops are in unpassable leatherwood scrub. I decided to follow the park boundry south for 4 km. For most of the way its possible to walk along the doc side of the fence, keeping it legal, it crosses 3 gullys so there's a few up and downs. After the last valley the fenceline becomes steep and scrubby on either side and its necessary to cut east through farmland. It soon flatens out so I cross back over where its a short bush bash to the Mangapuaka stream.
The southern Ruahines are unlike the rest of the range, the main ridgeline is thick leatherwood and the lower slopes are furny scrub. Fortunately, theres a route from here to the end, consisting of well maintained tracks and boldery streams. There was once a network of huts but now only 1 remains.
Heading upstream against the wind i meet the start of the track to Kiritaki on the true right. It states 5-6hrs, given its 4pm already it beter be lying. There's no where to camp in the rocky river bed and with the wind it would be no fun at all.
It starts with a steep climb to a ridge which climbs gradualy to Matanginui (1074). There's good veiws east to Dannevegas and south over the endless leather leaf of the southern Ruahine. Wharite tower can be seen, only a small spike in the distance. From here it heads south before dropping very steeply down to a knarly creek whick is followed briefly before climbing steeply again to Kiritaki hut. 3.5 hrs sighn to hut.
A tidy 6 bunk, its maintained by local hunters in conjunction with doc. The woodburner,s 'condemned' due to a split in thr flue (im sure it would be fine), but theres a gas cooker instead.

D41- Longveiw hut to Cattle Creek hut

Today should of been Longveiw to Stanfield hut but i fucked up the navigation. It's a clear day so i get in an early start. There's a bit of a breeze on the ridge but nothing too exciting. South from Longveiw there's a marked, well maintained track, through initially tussock, then thick leatherwood scrub.
After 3hrs i pass the junction to Makeretu on the east. A km later, Another junction to the east is marked Makeretu, assuming its the Apiti track i take it. Further on the ridge becomes untracked and its time to leave behind the range i faithfully followed sinse Shutes, i haven't crossed so much as a stream for the last 6 days. This track is more overgrown tho its followable, descending into beech, and finally podocarp forest, the first real trees I've seen for a while. It seems a lot steeper and overgrown then i remember, having walked this way 2 years ago. Somethings definitely not right when i hear running water and emerge at Makeretu hut. Absolutely livid, i wasted at least 2 hours on what was already a long day. Ive come down an old track not marked on the map, a simple gps check would of prevented the issue. A dutchman who ive met at both Howlets and Longveiw is already at the hut, despite having left later than me.
From here the best route to get back on track is to head up the Makeretu river. It would of been i nice walk, up an easy shingle bed, under the shade of giant beech and rimu. It would be a good spot for a dip, having not washed since the Ngaruroro, but after that mistake, I'll be having no such luxury. At the headwaters a track leads up a steep spur to the Apiti track. 500m west a sighn points to Cattle Creek hut 3.5hrs and im back where i should be.
Descent a spur to the south i end up in the Mangatewainui stream where the track stops. Without a map there's no further indication of the route to Cattle Creek. I head downsteam for 800m to the first side stream on the true right. The map shows a track heading up the spur downstream of the forks, but theres no sign or arrow. It turns out it passes through private land and is not maintained, tho there's no mention of that back at the new looking doc sign, understanding 3.5 hrs.
I climb to a flat section which once contained Birch Whare, theres no evidence of the track so i head blindly up the spur. Further up a ground trail is established and very occasional permalot markers appear, it followable, mostly, sort of. At the ridgeline it enters thick scrub and the going slows, the wind picks up again from nowhere. Eventually reach the turn off to Cattle creek, still in a self punishing mood im keen to carry on to Stanfield but its another 1.5 hrs and it already 7.30. Cattle creek hut is a detour from the main track, but i clearly like that sort of thing. Its a tidy 8 bunk hut with a tank and woodburner in a pretty average spot. Located on the far side of the creek, it sits by a hillside of thick scrub and dead trees, it gets less use than the other huts, being harder to get to. The winds really going for it, despite being in a sheltered valley, and the whole huts shaking.

D40- Howlets hut to Longveiw hut.

The winds howling and the huts living up to its name. It was actually named after William Howlet who built the first hut here in the 1890's. Its a shorter day today so i wait for conditions to improve, they don't.
A sign outside marks Longveiw 4hrs and 2 mins later another sighn Longveiw 3.5hrs- good progress. Its all on broad tussock ridges again so at least i won't go off the edge, tho its hard to stand up at times. Being lower altitude, it more knee height scrub than tussock, but theres a well worn foot trail through. Think fog envelopes the higher sections.
It starts with a gentle climb to Taumataua (1431), before crossing a low saddle east to climb Otomore (1519). From here it drops across another saddle to reach Longveiw hut. The wind is at least in my favour climbing up from the saddles and its an effortless climb, riding the wind. The rain kicks in halfway through and makes the day quite unpleasant. It was a scheduled half day today due to hut positions, a good thing tho as the storm gets worse as i reach the hut.
Longveiw hut sits at 1200m at the point where the main devide drops below the tree line, it marks the end of open tops travel for the Ruahines. Despite being sheltered by a higher range to the west, the hut still seems to cop the burnt of a lot a bad weather here. Like most eastern Ruahine huts its easy access from the road and gets a lot of use. There's 12 bunks and a woodburner. Its supposively a serviced hut, tho the wood sheds completely empty and according to the book has been for a while. Chopping a log into lenths with a blunt axe occupies a good chunk of the afternoon.
That done, its time for my next tresure hunt. The holes full of water with all the recent rain but luckily the bucket hasn't risen. Apon opening i find waters seeped into the bucket, while most things are ok, a bag of rice bursts and requires carefully drying on newspaper. Longveiw hut lives up to its reputation not its name, with nothing but mist to been seen. The storm intensifies throughout the afternoon.

D39- Sunrise hut to Howlets hut

The sun actually rose for once at Sunrise. It dawns a clear day with no wind so i get in an early start to make up lost ground. Once back on the main range the entire western side is filled with mist and it's quite impressive, Spilling over the saddles like an overflowing dam.
Heading south i drop into a low saddle, shrowded on mist. Its think, wet, leatherwood scrub and quite slow going. Once above the scun and mist its an easy but long slog up the pyramid shaped Te Atua (1687m). Here it gets a bit tricky as the ridge narrows again to a crumbling line of rock, with significant drops either side, in yesterday's weather it would of been quite dodgy. The whole thing then angles steeply down and turns to scree. Going south- north it would of been more difficult.
From here there's a short flat section before descending steeply to the Waipawa saddle and steeply back up the other side. Siddleing the 3 Johns i come onto a broad tussock ridge which climbs gradualy to 1715. Its the highest point in the Ruahine main range, and the second highest in the trip. Without a breath of wind its hot, even up here.
The route from 1715 isn't obvious, the ridgeline swings East and the main devide continues along a low saddle to Broken ridge. Its a steep descent and ascent to and fron the saddle, the whole thing is loose and crumbling and requires caution. A vertical bluff apears to block the ridge, but its easily siddleable. Broken ridge lives up to its name, again a narrow line of loose, broken rock, in stong winds it could be potentially hazardous. Howlets hut can be seen from here, an orange dot, tho only half way there. The ridge opens out to broad tussock and again swings east requiring crossing yet another low saddle. There's nothing tricky this time but a long climb back up through tussock and speargrass to reach
Ohuinga (1686m).
Ohuinga marks the start of Sawtooth ridge. From its name, Sawtooth gets a daunting reputation but it no harder than anything else on the main range. It starts with a decent before frequent up and downs over the many 'teeth'. There's a couple of narrow section but there always is. A few teeth are too steep to climb but there easily siddleable on one side or other. There's good veiws east down to thr head of the Tuki Tuki river. I final steep climb brings me to Tiraha (1668). Here obvious ridges run S and SW, but there both dead end spurs. The main devide requires a steep and unobvious drop to the East to the much lower Daphne ridge. From here its an easy, mostly downhill walk to the hut. There's a well worn boot trail that becomes more defined and eventually turns into a marked track through a short section of leatherwood.
Unlike most Ruahine huts, which require a detour down a spur, Howlets sits right on the ridge, you'd have to walk under the deck to go past. Its a tidy 8 bunk hut with a woodburner and tank. Its owned an maintained by Herataunga tramping club, but open for public use. I arrive just as the wind reterns and the clouds role over. Its been 12.5 hrs hut to hut but good to get all the 'fun' bits done during the short break in the weather. There's a surplus of food in the hut which puts yesterday rationing in vain, at least it was something to do.

D38- Bad Weather day

The storms still raging in the morning, so there's no going over the tops. I consider a longer, lower route but it would rely on the Waipawa river not being up, which it probably is. Im probably in the best place to wait out the weather, tho food supplys are getting a bit dodgy being 2 days behind. The plan is to do nothing therefore eat nothing. By midday the winds eased but the raind still heavy. By mid afternoon more people turn up which i was expecting given the easy, all weather track to the carpark, they've also got spare food and as normal are more than happy to part with it, which eases the situation.

D37- Sparrowhawk bivvy to Sunrise hut

As forecast its pissing down with a sttong wind. With travel from here on open tops, there's no choice but wait it out. By 10.30 the rains stopped. Checking the forecast there's more rain and 100kph gusts this afternoon so i make a dash for Sunrise. Once back on the main range i realise how shelterd the bivi was. Its hard to make any progress against the wind and im frequently blown off course, the ridge is wide again so at least im not going to get blown off. Dropping a stone in the wind it falls at 45 degrees.
The next band of weather comes through about halfway through, initially painfull wind blown hail, then sideways rain, visablility comes and goes. The last saddle before Armstong dips below the bush line and its slow going in thick, wet scrub.
Reaching Armstrong saddle the rain stops but the winds so stong im crawling across an exposed section to prevent being blown off. Sunrise hut sits 15 mins down a spur to the east. Its only 2pm but with next section being higher and quite narrow, theres no way im tackling it in this wind.
Sunrise is unlike any other Ruahine hut, there's no doubt its woth more than all the others I've seen so far put together.
Its a moden 24 bunk with a seperate kitchen, woodburner and flown in wood supply, with that comes visitors and looking through the book its rarely unoccupied. The fires going when i arrive and a few visitors come and go throughout the afternoon, despite the wind, tho none of them stay.

D36- Aranga hut to Sparrowhawk bivvy

I was expecting to be kept awake all night by rats, however i see neither of the species responsible for the faeces in the hut. Its the cold that keeps me awake. Its a clear day and there's a good frost outside. With a lot of distance to cover and the forecast turning to crap this afternoon, i get in a cold but early start. I was intending today to be Aranga to Sunrise but it never happened.
From the hut the track continues through scrub and open tussock to where it swings south and stops. From here it's a case of picking up trails through thick scrub, some of which are dead ends and require backtracking. Eventually i pick up a stoat line which is followable but overgrown. After 1 last scubby saddle the ridge climbs above the bush line and its easy going on open tussock. It climbs steadily to a large plautoe at 1500m where i pass the track down Toatra spur and later the spur to Kylie biv. There's frequent tarns around here, the main water source in the ruahines(when they're not dry or frozen). There's also a fair bit of speargrass, hidden beneath the tussock, the points are sharp enough to draw blood.
From here the ridge narrows to a line a crumbling rock, with an impressive scree slope to the east. After this it opens up again and past the next peak is the Maropea tarn, an almost lake sized tarn, big enough to swim in, tho it'd be a cold one. The rest of the ridgeline is much of a muchness, more ups, more downs, lots of tussock and a bit of speargrass but nothing tricky. The sky turns grey and the sound of thunder increases. There's a bit of a scree run on the ladt down before the bivvy, and again im advantaged by going south.
A track leads for 2 mins down the east side, through Leatherwood scrub to Sparrowhawk bivvy. Sparrowhawk is about as flash as a 2 man bivvy gets, its the normal style underneath with a head height room joined on which would sleep another, tho with a dirt floor it's more of a kitchen. Again there's no fireplace so cooking is done on a campfire, again more smoke than heat. There's easy access up a tracked spur from the Hawkes bay side so it gets a resonable bit of use.

D35- Taruarua bivvy to Aranga hut

Its cold in the morning, which isn't suprising considering the forecast was to drop to zero and there's no heatinh in the bivvi. The wind has stopped but been replaced with mist and drizzel.
A sign warns that the ridgeline south of Taruarua is private, Maori land, tho according to the book everyone seems to go that way so I'd guess there's quite a casual stance on the matter. After the first 10mins however the track is unmaintained, it hovers around the bush line, making it quite scrubby in places. The Ruahine tops are different to the Kaweka, being more tussock than open scree and are slower going, eventually it rises above the bush line and the rain clears for a bit. At the high point i meet a rough atv track that runs east to meet the No Mans road end, there's a hut here but its not No Mans hut, which lies a km down the road. Its made of fridge pannels and has a generator, chiller, wood/electric  stoves and a shower, clearly not a doc structure. Its presumably private tho there's no mention of it, only the words 'no dick heads'.
No Mans road is the boundary between public/private land and there seems to be confusion over who owns it, to further complicate things access is thought big hill station on a ballot system allowing 3 parties through per week, not suprisingly, there no trafic. Leaving the hut i follow the road east for 500m, i leave in hail which turns to light sleet then rain. The track heading south to Aranga is not signed, but obvious it a well maintained route on public land. Its starts off a well poled route through open tussock. After passing the trig at Ohawai (1368m), it gradualy descends to the tree line where it follows a well maintained, marked track. The rain comes and goes but clears up in the end.
After a short boggy section i reach the Aranga/parkes peak junction. From here its 20mins east to the hut. Aranga hut lies on the boundary between public/private land and there's confusion as to who owns it, there also seems to be confusion as to who maintains it. I heard it was a bit rough but i wasn't expecting what i found. It makes Comet look like a five star. There's holes in the walls and floor, theres 2.5 bunks left that haven't been choped up for firewood, enough bits of moldy, rat chewed foam to make a matrees, and obvious signs of both rat and possum in residence. A corner if full of damp moldy rubbish. A water tank is full despite the gutters having long fallen off. The original fireplace has rotted and fallen down and instead a chimney jammed through the roof with a rusting metal bucket placed half way up.
Camping out seems a better option, but the grounds uneven and boggy and the sky promises more rain and its still cold. The next stop's Kylie biv, 4 hours away so i reluctantly move my gear in.
I decide on an outside fire, more to keep out of the place for longer than for safety/smoke inhalation. Everything soaked but i get a fire going eventually in a pile of scrap metal found lying around.

D34 Comet hut to Taruarua biv

Its a typical Kaweka/Ruahine morning, a few spots of rain but enough wind behind it that it never really hits the ground.
Leaving the hut i take the track towards Shutes, the sign's been removed but its obvious being the only track from the carpark. It passes mainly through contotra with a bit of kanuka scrub. There's a fair bit of snow damage, but i was expecting it from my experience with contotra in the Kaweka. It start with a 200m climb to Komata(1083), my last Kaweka peak.
From here it's a very easy 2km along a flat, broad ridge, there's a small stand of beech before returning to the ugly pines. It opens into kanuka scrub for the descent to the Taruarua river, its a reminder of the drop to Cameron, and its nicknamed 'Hell Hill', tho its not as steep, dropping 700m to the river. Theres a good campspot just before the river and two tents explain the cars at the carpark. Like the Ngaruroro, the Taruarua cuts through the range and must be crossed, its smaller and is an easy knee deep cross.
The river marks the boundary between the Kaweka and Ruahine forest parks, and the rain begins on cue as i enter the latter. The track to Shutes is not visable from the river but obvious when found, it starts off with a short climb before siddleing a small stream to Shutes. The vegetation in the first bit is unusual, a few sparsely populated kanukas, with open grass underneath.
  Shutes hut is 'historic', built by rabbiter Alex Shute in the 1860's. Its constructed from stone and concrete, the cement carried over the hill from big hill station. There's been a new roof added by doc, but otherwise it keep its original design. A thick log book dates back to '85, and its only half full. The rain stops as i leave.
The climb back up to the tops is gentler than the descent but it goes on and on. It starts off a very well maintained track through mature kanuka, climbing continously and seems never ending untill it opens out into a series of clay pans which are followed to the top, all ups its an 800m climb from the river. Once onto the tussock tops of the Ruahine main range, the wind takes on a different league. Its difficult to stay up right and at times i fail. Im blown meters off track, but thankfully the ridge is broad so there's room for error. It starts off in my favour, blowing me uphill as if it were flat, tho at the high point i change direction and it becomes perpendicular.
I consider the turn off to Diannes hut, in a sheltered valley, but not wanting to loose hard gained altitude i carry on to the biv. Taruarua bivvy is located 5 mins down a spur on the west, its in a patch off beech, providing partial shelter from the wind.
Like Studholme Bivvy, its a small 2 man hut, just shorter than head height. A common feature in alpine areas, they're like orange dog boxes on the hillside, and they all look just the same. Last time i was here there was a sheltered fireplace outside, but thats gone and been replaced with a large wooden table. On it's side however that table makes an excellent wind break, and coupled with a hole dug with the hatchet, it the safest and most efficient fire yet, despite the gales.

D33- Cameron hut to Comet hut

The Ngaruroro cuts right through the main devide so must be crossed. Heading back to the junction i take the Kiwi mouth route which reterns to the river upstream of Cameron and stops. The true right of the Ngaruroro is considered Maori land and the swing bridge has been removed. Its too deep to cross at the site of the former bridge, so its necessary to travel upsteam and cross above the first rapid. Its a bit of a knarly, bouldery crossing even in low flows.
The track from the swing bridge is of course unmaintained but its been recently trimmed by locals as far as the main spur, they've even used the same couler tape as me. Once onto the main spur, the track stops but its reasonably open and an easy climb up to the ridge. It does however regain 700m from the riverbed so it takes a while.
Once on the ridge it's broad, open and easy going heading SE. According to the map, the main ridgeline is on public land, but theres confusion over the issue. The summit of Te Iranga (1324m) and trig lies 500m to the west. There's a few patches of beech, but its all open and easy. Loosing altitude again, there's a well formed track through here, not the formal type, more a route kept open by locals (not me this time). Its unmarked but obvious. It runs into a series of clay pans which lead to first a 4wd track and secondly the Napier- Taihape road, popping out on the Gentle-annie summit. Its the first sealed road since the Waioeka, and its time for the next road bash.
The road descends steeply as far as the Hoodoo creek. The traffic is light, mainly logging trucks stuck in crawler and can be heard for miles, making it safe to walk down the middle of the road, avoiding the narrow verges. The Hoodoo is a vital water source for this leg, theres even a swimming hole just by the bridge, but being cooler and overcast i resist the urge for a roadside wallow. From here it climbs over a short saddle to the start of comet road. Its only 6.5km to the hut but its all uphill and seems further. It climbs steeply, gaining 300m from the road untill leveling out along a flat ridge for the last 2km. The hut and carpark are located at the roadend.
Comet hut is a shit hole, it gets the abuse typical of a road end hut. There's a missing window, thee door dosent latch from inside, no fireplace, 4 bunks and a further camp bed left outside to rot. The walls are covered in graffiti and the log books missing, there's the usefull half of a broom but it doesn't seem to of been used in a while. A no fires sign sits beside a well used fire pit- what do you expect if you remove the fireplace. Again its most useful aspect is it's water tank. It's obviously off doc's maintenance list and i wouldn't be suprised if its removed due to 'reaching the end of it's design life'.
The road may be the huts biggest enemy, but for me it was useful, enabling me bury my next food drop here, which i find behind the hut. The clouds have been gradualy building and turn to rain early evening, which comes straight in through the open window.

D31- Makino hut to Studholme Saddle hut

The wind has died off overnight. Its a cook start but soon turns into another hot day. There's no water en - route today so its necessary to carry a days worth with me. The recently cut track continues SW to the junction with the track to Mangaturutu. It seems the track cutters went that way as the track south to the tops still has snow damage. About half way up i hear chainsaws, and meet the cutters going the other way, from here it's clear.
Gaining altitude, the track enters stunted beech and eventually open tops. There's no leatherwood scrub here just open scree and alpine herbs. There's a poled route to follow tho its obvious in clear weather, junctions with other spurs are marked with good old Kaweka aluminium signs. The ridge is broad and easy going the entire way, no narrow, crumbling line to follow. It climbs steadily to Whetu (1650m). From here it drops, climbs, drops, climbs and drops before a final steep slog to North Kaweka, where its relitively flat to the Kaweka J summit. The map shows a spring to the west, but I've never been able to find it.
At 1724m, Kaweka J is the highest point in the range and the highest on this trip. On a clear day it offers stunning views. East to Napier and the coast, south to the Ruahine, West to the Kaimanawa and volcanoes, and North over the Urewera. A twin peak on the northern horizon may well be Te Rangaakapua. A mound of rocks serves as a memorial to Hereataunga tramping club members, and the remains of a trig marks the summit.
Continuing south along the range, altitude is lost more quickly. Passing Mad Dog hill (1631), a sigh labeled Stunholme hut points down a spur running parallel to the main range. The route then drops steeply west into a gully head. Studholme Saddle hut is not on the saddle, instead the valley beside, nestled in a pocket of beech at the limit of its existence. Being out the sun it's a cold spot, nicknamed snowy hollow, tho theres no snow on my visit. Its a small 4 bunk hut with an open fire, a small but reliable creek provides a water source. The last time i was here, wood was scarce, but im suprised to see the hut well stocked and the creek littered with wood.

D32- Studholme Saddle hut to Cameron hut

I've been at it for a month now. Its a chilly start to the day at 1300, but with a short distance to cover there's no need to get into it too early.
Its a 10 min walk down the creek to the Studholme Bivvy, a basic 2 man shelter, its not high enough to stand up in and 2 matresses take up the entire floor space, bivvys like this are a common feature of the Kaweka. From here a poled route climbs steeply back to the saddle. The Studholme Saddle has a reputation for being the windiest spot in the Kaweka, I've been blown uphill here on a previous trip. Its not that windy today but theres still a stiff breeze.
Continuing south i pass the track to Mackintosh hut, im only 2 hours away from home despite being in the middle of the trip, tho im not going that way. There's a good view over the Macintosh Plautoe and i can clearly see where my trap line would be. Further south i reach the summit of Kaiarahi(1507m). The obvious ridge continues south past The Tits, The Rouge, and down to the Tutaekuri river. I head NW in a big arc around the head of the Tutaekuri, eventually heading south again, it dips briefly below the tree line where Castle Camp is found. Castle camp is a tarp shelter with a tin roof and a dirt floor, the matresses have been removed from my last visit, but you could stay there if necessary. Probably the most useful aspect is it's water tank.
Back on the open tops, the ridge meanders south before reaching Kiwi Saddle, again just below the bush line. Kiwi Saddle hut is located on the saddle. Its owned and maintained by Herataunga tramping club, but open for public use. Its a tidy 8 bunker with a woodburner and tank and gets a lot of use. I've had a possum block here in the past so am familiar with the area.
From here its a bit of a grunt to the Cameron hut/ Lakes carpark junction at 1380m. The western side is bare, the eastern covered in invasive contotra pines. Taking the western ridge towards Cameron it drops reasonably steeply with a decent drop off on the southern face. Once below the bush line it meanders around 1150 untill the Cameron/ Kiwi Mouth junction. The bush is quite open, there's occasional snow damage, but nothing much, the high altitude beech seems to cope with it better.
From the junction it climbs to 1180m, where occasional open areas give good veiws down to the Ngaruroro river. For most of this trip I've been disadvantaged by heading north- south, traversing all the Major rivers upstream, the descent to Cameron is one place im glad to be southbound. The route looses 600 vertical meters over a kilometre. Its not commonly used, and serves as a high route for when the Ngaruroro's in flood. It's mainly open clay and scree, in places there's little vegetation to slow the descent, a few clay patches required carefull shuffling. After rain it would be extremely dangerous.
At the base it enters tall kanuka forest and joins the broad Cameron track which is followed though flats to the hut. Cameron hut is a standard nsfs hut and has had little modernisation. There's an open fire, 6 steel bunks and water from the Ngaruroro river. It gets a lot of use, tho only October to April. Its easy access up the riverbed, tho many parties report being stranded by the river or forced to  take the high route. The Ngaruroro is great and its a highlight of the trip. Its not a monster like the Motu/Mohaka, tho its big enough to be popular with rafters and fishermen. There's a perfect swimming hole outside the hut, and its just what i need after a long, dusty descent. The water's warm and clear, statistically it's the second clearest river in the country. Fact.

D30- Mangatutu hot springs to Makino hut

Almost a rest day. After a cruisy start and a wash with some soaps, it 1pm by the time i break camp. Its 3km back down the road to the start of the Makino track. The Kawekas were the epicentre of August's snow fall and the damage is severe even at 500m. With the tracks around Macintosh still uncut other than by me, im expecting the Makino track to be bad. However its been recently cut, well marked and impossible to loose.
It starts off quite steep, but soon adopts a more gentle gradient, tho it's uphill all the way, gaining 500m from the campsite to the hut. Its starts off in kanuka scrub, but later changes to original beech forest.a couple of open spots provide good views to the Mohaka valley and farmland beyond.
I pass the Makino biv, nothing more than corrugated iron proped up on local timber, its got a dirt floor and no water source, but would be good shelter if caught out. After passing the tracks to Middle hill and Te Puia, a 3rd sign points to Makino hut, 100m from the track in a grassy clearing. Its a typical Kaweka hut, orange painted, a Wagner stove, 6 steel bunks and a tank. It gets regular use being easy access, but there's no one else tonight.
Another great feature of the Kaweka huts is the map and description/ times of nearby tracks, something rarely seen in other places. The winds been gradualy increasing the last 2 days, by the time i reach the hut at 1000m, its quite strong.