D44- Coppermine stream to Manawatu Gourge reserve

From the creek, signed tracks lead to coppermine road (30min), or Wharite(3hrs), although coppermine road would provide the most direct route to Woodville, i considered Wharite to be an essential waypoint, being the southern most peak in the Ruahine. As per normal, my last track in the Ruahine starts with a steep climb from the riverbed. It levels off before climbing again to whats left of the main devide, now a single, leatherwood ridge. The track then follows the ridge for its final km to Wharite(920m). The Wharite tower is huge, tho in the thick fog i cant see the top, its pylon shaped and rigged with communication equipment. Two concrete buildings and a car park sit beside. On my last visit there were extensive veiws out to the Tararua's, Manawatu and towards Wellington, however all i see is white. It needless to say it's also pretty windy.
Wharite marks the end of my Ruahine traverse, from here the Manawatu cuts right through the main devide, creating a band of towns and farmland, the result, a lot of road walking. Its about 13km to Woodville, but its all downhill and goes quickly. Wharite road descends through scrub to the park boundry where it continues through farmland, once below the clouds, theres resonable veiws across to the windmills. Once onto the flats, it becomes sealed with paddock after paddock of dairy farms on either side, even the mailboxes are made to look like cows. The roads around Woodville are in grid formation, and by turning left down Oxford then right down Mclain, i avoid an unnecessary walk on the state highway. The roads become wider and busier, the verges mown, and the drivers stop waving back.
For some reason, i assumed there was a New World here, but theres only a four square tho at the price i was almost considering the 2 day walk to Palmy. Fortunately they're open on a Sunday avo. After restocking provisions, and a quick bite to eat, it's time to get the hell out of town.
From Woodville there's no choice but to walk the SH3 (Napier to Plalmerston), there's a motocross event on and its busy, the least pleasent road bash yet. On a narrow section it becomes too dangerous to walk beside the road so i follow the railway instead. I turn left down Gourge road and cross the bridge over the Manawatu. The rivers bigger than i was expecting, comparable to the Motu/Mohaka, and im greatfull for the bridge.
The Manawatu Gourge seinic reserve sits beside the river, an area of original, uncleared tawa forest. There's a network of high standard walking tracks, the longest of which runs the lenth of the gourge. It would be nice to include it in this trip but unfortunately it runs perpendicular to my direction of travel.
I pick an a mown grassy area beside the road to camp. There's a playground, picknick tables and toilets, but a water tank and barbecue seal the deal. Its got a 'no camping', vibe to it but no sighn to stop me. The roads quiet and no one seems to stop. Ive got time for a swim but its just too cold and windy so instead i take one of the short walks through the Tawa.

Day 43- Kiritaki hut to Coppermine stream

I could of pushed on to Woodville today, tho it would of been a long day and potentially left me in the town with nowhere to camp, so i decide to drag it out over 2 days. Given it a half day i have a lie in and a cooked breakfast with the hunters. The wind has completely stoped and been replaced with thick fog, tho it later burns off.
From the hut its a short climb before droping down to another rocky Ruahine riverbed- Raparapawai stream. Following it downstream for 2.5km, a steep track leads up to a ridgeline. It drops slightly to a scrubby, muddy slip where it stops. From here im left to pick a way downhill untill it opens up to a steep side creek which can be followed to the Mangaatua stream. There's a good campspot in here, tucked onto a terrace, tho im keen to get to the next vally. The next bit a repeat of the last, going downsteam to a track which is climbs steeply up then steeply down to the Coppermine stream.
I pass the remains of Coppermine hut, a concrete fire base in a small scrubby clearing, this was my first option for a campspot tonight but its uneven and a long walk to the stream for water. Scouting the creek up and down its narrow, bouldery and offers no hope of a campspot. The only viable option seems to be camp on the track it's self. The area's popular with day walkers who probably wouldn't approve of such activities, so i leave setting up camp till later and explore the short walk to the mine. The mine itself is very unimpressive, its been filled in and there's no evidence of its existence other than a sign. A short tunnel a bit further back is known as the magazine, a short, wet hole with wetas on the ceiling.
Its not the perfect spot to camp, but is the perfect night at least, still, clear and warm, something very rare in the Ruahines.

D42- Cattle Creek hut to Kiritaki hut

The winds still going for it in the morning. Climbing back up to the ridge, the track enters public land and is maintained. After a couple of kms it drops steeply to the Tamiki river, 300m downstream on the true right is Stanfield hut. Its architecturally simular to Cattle Creek tho gets a lot more use. The Tamiki river is only a small trickle over a wide shingle bed. The vegetation is mainly scrub with a few podocarps, occasional stands of pine and further downstream willow and poplar. Its an easy 4km downstream to the Tamiki road campsite. It would make a nice spot if you needed it. There's a shelter, toilets, a large fireplace and a barbecue. There's no vehicle access so it doesn't get too much use. From here I take the Roki track. More of a walking track id image its more popular with families than trampers. It heads through mature forest over a saddle to the Rokaiwhana stream and stops. The Roki is another broad shingle bed, and its an easy 2km downstream to farmland.
There's no obvious options for this next section. There's no track linking the southern Ruahine with the rest of the range and the tops are in unpassable leatherwood scrub. I decided to follow the park boundry south for 4 km. For most of the way its possible to walk along the doc side of the fence, keeping it legal, it crosses 3 gullys so there's a few up and downs. After the last valley the fenceline becomes steep and scrubby on either side and its necessary to cut east through farmland. It soon flatens out so I cross back over where its a short bush bash to the Mangapuaka stream.
The southern Ruahines are unlike the rest of the range, the main ridgeline is thick leatherwood and the lower slopes are furny scrub. Fortunately, theres a route from here to the end, consisting of well maintained tracks and boldery streams. There was once a network of huts but now only 1 remains.
Heading upstream against the wind i meet the start of the track to Kiritaki on the true right. It states 5-6hrs, given its 4pm already it beter be lying. There's no where to camp in the rocky river bed and with the wind it would be no fun at all.
It starts with a steep climb to a ridge which climbs gradualy to Matanginui (1074). There's good veiws east to Dannevegas and south over the endless leather leaf of the southern Ruahine. Wharite tower can be seen, only a small spike in the distance. From here it heads south before dropping very steeply down to a knarly creek whick is followed briefly before climbing steeply again to Kiritaki hut. 3.5 hrs sighn to hut.
A tidy 6 bunk, its maintained by local hunters in conjunction with doc. The woodburner,s 'condemned' due to a split in thr flue (im sure it would be fine), but theres a gas cooker instead.

D42- Cattle Creek hut to Kiritaki hut

The winds still going for it in the morning. Climbing back up to the ridge, the track enters public land and is maintained. After a couple of kms it drops steeply to the Tamiki river, 300m downstream on the true right is Stanfield hut. Its architecturally simular to Cattle Creek tho gets a lot more use. The Tamiki river is only a small trickle over a wide shingle bed. The vegetation is mainly scrub with a few podocarps, occasional stands of pine and further downstream willow and poplar. Its an easy 4km downstream to the Tamiki road campsite. It would make a nice spot if you needed it. There's a shelter, toilets, a large fireplace and a barbecue. There's no vehicle access so it doesn't get too much use. From here I take the Roki track. More of a walking track id image its more popular with families than trampers. It heads through mature forest over a saddle to the Rokaiwhana stream and stops. The Roki is another broad shingle bed, and its an easy 2km downstream to farmland.
There's no obvious options for this next section. There's no track linking the southern Ruahine with the rest of the range and the tops are in unpassable leatherwood scrub. I decided to follow the park boundry south for 4 km. For most of the way its possible to walk along the doc side of the fence, keeping it legal, it crosses 3 gullys so there's a few up and downs. After the last valley the fenceline becomes steep and scrubby on either side and its necessary to cut east through farmland. It soon flatens out so I cross back over where its a short bush bash to the Mangapuaka stream.
The southern Ruahines are unlike the rest of the range, the main ridgeline is thick leatherwood and the lower slopes are furny scrub. Fortunately, theres a route from here to the end, consisting of well maintained tracks and boldery streams. There was once a network of huts but now only 1 remains.
Heading upstream against the wind i meet the start of the track to Kiritaki on the true right. It states 5-6hrs, given its 4pm already it beter be lying. There's no where to camp in the rocky river bed and with the wind it would be no fun at all.
It starts with a steep climb to a ridge which climbs gradualy to Matanginui (1074). There's good veiws east to Dannevegas and south over the endless leather leaf of the southern Ruahine. Wharite tower can be seen, only a small spike in the distance. From here it heads south before dropping very steeply down to a knarly creek whick is followed briefly before climbing steeply again to Kiritaki hut. 3.5 hrs sighn to hut.
A tidy 6 bunk, its maintained by local hunters in conjunction with doc. The woodburner,s 'condemned' due to a split in thr flue (im sure it would be fine), but theres a gas cooker instead.

D41- Longveiw hut to Cattle Creek hut

Today should of been Longveiw to Stanfield hut but i fucked up the navigation. It's a clear day so i get in an early start. There's a bit of a breeze on the ridge but nothing too exciting. South from Longveiw there's a marked, well maintained track, through initially tussock, then thick leatherwood scrub.
After 3hrs i pass the junction to Makeretu on the east. A km later, Another junction to the east is marked Makeretu, assuming its the Apiti track i take it. Further on the ridge becomes untracked and its time to leave behind the range i faithfully followed sinse Shutes, i haven't crossed so much as a stream for the last 6 days. This track is more overgrown tho its followable, descending into beech, and finally podocarp forest, the first real trees I've seen for a while. It seems a lot steeper and overgrown then i remember, having walked this way 2 years ago. Somethings definitely not right when i hear running water and emerge at Makeretu hut. Absolutely livid, i wasted at least 2 hours on what was already a long day. Ive come down an old track not marked on the map, a simple gps check would of prevented the issue. A dutchman who ive met at both Howlets and Longveiw is already at the hut, despite having left later than me.
From here the best route to get back on track is to head up the Makeretu river. It would of been i nice walk, up an easy shingle bed, under the shade of giant beech and rimu. It would be a good spot for a dip, having not washed since the Ngaruroro, but after that mistake, I'll be having no such luxury. At the headwaters a track leads up a steep spur to the Apiti track. 500m west a sighn points to Cattle Creek hut 3.5hrs and im back where i should be.
Descent a spur to the south i end up in the Mangatewainui stream where the track stops. Without a map there's no further indication of the route to Cattle Creek. I head downsteam for 800m to the first side stream on the true right. The map shows a track heading up the spur downstream of the forks, but theres no sign or arrow. It turns out it passes through private land and is not maintained, tho there's no mention of that back at the new looking doc sign, understanding 3.5 hrs.
I climb to a flat section which once contained Birch Whare, theres no evidence of the track so i head blindly up the spur. Further up a ground trail is established and very occasional permalot markers appear, it followable, mostly, sort of. At the ridgeline it enters thick scrub and the going slows, the wind picks up again from nowhere. Eventually reach the turn off to Cattle creek, still in a self punishing mood im keen to carry on to Stanfield but its another 1.5 hrs and it already 7.30. Cattle creek hut is a detour from the main track, but i clearly like that sort of thing. Its a tidy 8 bunk hut with a tank and woodburner in a pretty average spot. Located on the far side of the creek, it sits by a hillside of thick scrub and dead trees, it gets less use than the other huts, being harder to get to. The winds really going for it, despite being in a sheltered valley, and the whole huts shaking.

D40- Howlets hut to Longveiw hut.

The winds howling and the huts living up to its name. It was actually named after William Howlet who built the first hut here in the 1890's. Its a shorter day today so i wait for conditions to improve, they don't.
A sign outside marks Longveiw 4hrs and 2 mins later another sighn Longveiw 3.5hrs- good progress. Its all on broad tussock ridges again so at least i won't go off the edge, tho its hard to stand up at times. Being lower altitude, it more knee height scrub than tussock, but theres a well worn foot trail through. Think fog envelopes the higher sections.
It starts with a gentle climb to Taumataua (1431), before crossing a low saddle east to climb Otomore (1519). From here it drops across another saddle to reach Longveiw hut. The wind is at least in my favour climbing up from the saddles and its an effortless climb, riding the wind. The rain kicks in halfway through and makes the day quite unpleasant. It was a scheduled half day today due to hut positions, a good thing tho as the storm gets worse as i reach the hut.
Longveiw hut sits at 1200m at the point where the main devide drops below the tree line, it marks the end of open tops travel for the Ruahines. Despite being sheltered by a higher range to the west, the hut still seems to cop the burnt of a lot a bad weather here. Like most eastern Ruahine huts its easy access from the road and gets a lot of use. There's 12 bunks and a woodburner. Its supposively a serviced hut, tho the wood sheds completely empty and according to the book has been for a while. Chopping a log into lenths with a blunt axe occupies a good chunk of the afternoon.
That done, its time for my next tresure hunt. The holes full of water with all the recent rain but luckily the bucket hasn't risen. Apon opening i find waters seeped into the bucket, while most things are ok, a bag of rice bursts and requires carefully drying on newspaper. Longveiw hut lives up to its reputation not its name, with nothing but mist to been seen. The storm intensifies throughout the afternoon.

D39- Sunrise hut to Howlets hut

The sun actually rose for once at Sunrise. It dawns a clear day with no wind so i get in an early start to make up lost ground. Once back on the main range the entire western side is filled with mist and it's quite impressive, Spilling over the saddles like an overflowing dam.
Heading south i drop into a low saddle, shrowded on mist. Its think, wet, leatherwood scrub and quite slow going. Once above the scun and mist its an easy but long slog up the pyramid shaped Te Atua (1687m). Here it gets a bit tricky as the ridge narrows again to a crumbling line of rock, with significant drops either side, in yesterday's weather it would of been quite dodgy. The whole thing then angles steeply down and turns to scree. Going south- north it would of been more difficult.
From here there's a short flat section before descending steeply to the Waipawa saddle and steeply back up the other side. Siddleing the 3 Johns i come onto a broad tussock ridge which climbs gradualy to 1715. Its the highest point in the Ruahine main range, and the second highest in the trip. Without a breath of wind its hot, even up here.
The route from 1715 isn't obvious, the ridgeline swings East and the main devide continues along a low saddle to Broken ridge. Its a steep descent and ascent to and fron the saddle, the whole thing is loose and crumbling and requires caution. A vertical bluff apears to block the ridge, but its easily siddleable. Broken ridge lives up to its name, again a narrow line of loose, broken rock, in stong winds it could be potentially hazardous. Howlets hut can be seen from here, an orange dot, tho only half way there. The ridge opens out to broad tussock and again swings east requiring crossing yet another low saddle. There's nothing tricky this time but a long climb back up through tussock and speargrass to reach
Ohuinga (1686m).
Ohuinga marks the start of Sawtooth ridge. From its name, Sawtooth gets a daunting reputation but it no harder than anything else on the main range. It starts with a decent before frequent up and downs over the many 'teeth'. There's a couple of narrow section but there always is. A few teeth are too steep to climb but there easily siddleable on one side or other. There's good veiws east down to thr head of the Tuki Tuki river. I final steep climb brings me to Tiraha (1668). Here obvious ridges run S and SW, but there both dead end spurs. The main devide requires a steep and unobvious drop to the East to the much lower Daphne ridge. From here its an easy, mostly downhill walk to the hut. There's a well worn boot trail that becomes more defined and eventually turns into a marked track through a short section of leatherwood.
Unlike most Ruahine huts, which require a detour down a spur, Howlets sits right on the ridge, you'd have to walk under the deck to go past. Its a tidy 8 bunk hut with a woodburner and tank. Its owned an maintained by Herataunga tramping club, but open for public use. I arrive just as the wind reterns and the clouds role over. Its been 12.5 hrs hut to hut but good to get all the 'fun' bits done during the short break in the weather. There's a surplus of food in the hut which puts yesterday rationing in vain, at least it was something to do.

D38- Bad Weather day

The storms still raging in the morning, so there's no going over the tops. I consider a longer, lower route but it would rely on the Waipawa river not being up, which it probably is. Im probably in the best place to wait out the weather, tho food supplys are getting a bit dodgy being 2 days behind. The plan is to do nothing therefore eat nothing. By midday the winds eased but the raind still heavy. By mid afternoon more people turn up which i was expecting given the easy, all weather track to the carpark, they've also got spare food and as normal are more than happy to part with it, which eases the situation.

D37- Sparrowhawk bivvy to Sunrise hut

As forecast its pissing down with a sttong wind. With travel from here on open tops, there's no choice but wait it out. By 10.30 the rains stopped. Checking the forecast there's more rain and 100kph gusts this afternoon so i make a dash for Sunrise. Once back on the main range i realise how shelterd the bivi was. Its hard to make any progress against the wind and im frequently blown off course, the ridge is wide again so at least im not going to get blown off. Dropping a stone in the wind it falls at 45 degrees.
The next band of weather comes through about halfway through, initially painfull wind blown hail, then sideways rain, visablility comes and goes. The last saddle before Armstong dips below the bush line and its slow going in thick, wet scrub.
Reaching Armstrong saddle the rain stops but the winds so stong im crawling across an exposed section to prevent being blown off. Sunrise hut sits 15 mins down a spur to the east. Its only 2pm but with next section being higher and quite narrow, theres no way im tackling it in this wind.
Sunrise is unlike any other Ruahine hut, there's no doubt its woth more than all the others I've seen so far put together.
Its a moden 24 bunk with a seperate kitchen, woodburner and flown in wood supply, with that comes visitors and looking through the book its rarely unoccupied. The fires going when i arrive and a few visitors come and go throughout the afternoon, despite the wind, tho none of them stay.

D36- Aranga hut to Sparrowhawk bivvy

I was expecting to be kept awake all night by rats, however i see neither of the species responsible for the faeces in the hut. Its the cold that keeps me awake. Its a clear day and there's a good frost outside. With a lot of distance to cover and the forecast turning to crap this afternoon, i get in a cold but early start. I was intending today to be Aranga to Sunrise but it never happened.
From the hut the track continues through scrub and open tussock to where it swings south and stops. From here it's a case of picking up trails through thick scrub, some of which are dead ends and require backtracking. Eventually i pick up a stoat line which is followable but overgrown. After 1 last scubby saddle the ridge climbs above the bush line and its easy going on open tussock. It climbs steadily to a large plautoe at 1500m where i pass the track down Toatra spur and later the spur to Kylie biv. There's frequent tarns around here, the main water source in the ruahines(when they're not dry or frozen). There's also a fair bit of speargrass, hidden beneath the tussock, the points are sharp enough to draw blood.
From here the ridge narrows to a line a crumbling rock, with an impressive scree slope to the east. After this it opens up again and past the next peak is the Maropea tarn, an almost lake sized tarn, big enough to swim in, tho it'd be a cold one. The rest of the ridgeline is much of a muchness, more ups, more downs, lots of tussock and a bit of speargrass but nothing tricky. The sky turns grey and the sound of thunder increases. There's a bit of a scree run on the ladt down before the bivvy, and again im advantaged by going south.
A track leads for 2 mins down the east side, through Leatherwood scrub to Sparrowhawk bivvy. Sparrowhawk is about as flash as a 2 man bivvy gets, its the normal style underneath with a head height room joined on which would sleep another, tho with a dirt floor it's more of a kitchen. Again there's no fireplace so cooking is done on a campfire, again more smoke than heat. There's easy access up a tracked spur from the Hawkes bay side so it gets a resonable bit of use.

D35- Taruarua bivvy to Aranga hut

Its cold in the morning, which isn't suprising considering the forecast was to drop to zero and there's no heatinh in the bivvi. The wind has stopped but been replaced with mist and drizzel.
A sign warns that the ridgeline south of Taruarua is private, Maori land, tho according to the book everyone seems to go that way so I'd guess there's quite a casual stance on the matter. After the first 10mins however the track is unmaintained, it hovers around the bush line, making it quite scrubby in places. The Ruahine tops are different to the Kaweka, being more tussock than open scree and are slower going, eventually it rises above the bush line and the rain clears for a bit. At the high point i meet a rough atv track that runs east to meet the No Mans road end, there's a hut here but its not No Mans hut, which lies a km down the road. Its made of fridge pannels and has a generator, chiller, wood/electric  stoves and a shower, clearly not a doc structure. Its presumably private tho there's no mention of it, only the words 'no dick heads'.
No Mans road is the boundary between public/private land and there seems to be confusion over who owns it, to further complicate things access is thought big hill station on a ballot system allowing 3 parties through per week, not suprisingly, there no trafic. Leaving the hut i follow the road east for 500m, i leave in hail which turns to light sleet then rain. The track heading south to Aranga is not signed, but obvious it a well maintained route on public land. Its starts off a well poled route through open tussock. After passing the trig at Ohawai (1368m), it gradualy descends to the tree line where it follows a well maintained, marked track. The rain comes and goes but clears up in the end.
After a short boggy section i reach the Aranga/parkes peak junction. From here its 20mins east to the hut. Aranga hut lies on the boundary between public/private land and there's confusion as to who owns it, there also seems to be confusion as to who maintains it. I heard it was a bit rough but i wasn't expecting what i found. It makes Comet look like a five star. There's holes in the walls and floor, theres 2.5 bunks left that haven't been choped up for firewood, enough bits of moldy, rat chewed foam to make a matrees, and obvious signs of both rat and possum in residence. A corner if full of damp moldy rubbish. A water tank is full despite the gutters having long fallen off. The original fireplace has rotted and fallen down and instead a chimney jammed through the roof with a rusting metal bucket placed half way up.
Camping out seems a better option, but the grounds uneven and boggy and the sky promises more rain and its still cold. The next stop's Kylie biv, 4 hours away so i reluctantly move my gear in.
I decide on an outside fire, more to keep out of the place for longer than for safety/smoke inhalation. Everything soaked but i get a fire going eventually in a pile of scrap metal found lying around.

D34 Comet hut to Taruarua biv

Its a typical Kaweka/Ruahine morning, a few spots of rain but enough wind behind it that it never really hits the ground.
Leaving the hut i take the track towards Shutes, the sign's been removed but its obvious being the only track from the carpark. It passes mainly through contotra with a bit of kanuka scrub. There's a fair bit of snow damage, but i was expecting it from my experience with contotra in the Kaweka. It start with a 200m climb to Komata(1083), my last Kaweka peak.
From here it's a very easy 2km along a flat, broad ridge, there's a small stand of beech before returning to the ugly pines. It opens into kanuka scrub for the descent to the Taruarua river, its a reminder of the drop to Cameron, and its nicknamed 'Hell Hill', tho its not as steep, dropping 700m to the river. Theres a good campspot just before the river and two tents explain the cars at the carpark. Like the Ngaruroro, the Taruarua cuts through the range and must be crossed, its smaller and is an easy knee deep cross.
The river marks the boundary between the Kaweka and Ruahine forest parks, and the rain begins on cue as i enter the latter. The track to Shutes is not visable from the river but obvious when found, it starts off with a short climb before siddleing a small stream to Shutes. The vegetation in the first bit is unusual, a few sparsely populated kanukas, with open grass underneath.
  Shutes hut is 'historic', built by rabbiter Alex Shute in the 1860's. Its constructed from stone and concrete, the cement carried over the hill from big hill station. There's been a new roof added by doc, but otherwise it keep its original design. A thick log book dates back to '85, and its only half full. The rain stops as i leave.
The climb back up to the tops is gentler than the descent but it goes on and on. It starts off a very well maintained track through mature kanuka, climbing continously and seems never ending untill it opens out into a series of clay pans which are followed to the top, all ups its an 800m climb from the river. Once onto the tussock tops of the Ruahine main range, the wind takes on a different league. Its difficult to stay up right and at times i fail. Im blown meters off track, but thankfully the ridge is broad so there's room for error. It starts off in my favour, blowing me uphill as if it were flat, tho at the high point i change direction and it becomes perpendicular.
I consider the turn off to Diannes hut, in a sheltered valley, but not wanting to loose hard gained altitude i carry on to the biv. Taruarua bivvy is located 5 mins down a spur on the west, its in a patch off beech, providing partial shelter from the wind.
Like Studholme Bivvy, its a small 2 man hut, just shorter than head height. A common feature in alpine areas, they're like orange dog boxes on the hillside, and they all look just the same. Last time i was here there was a sheltered fireplace outside, but thats gone and been replaced with a large wooden table. On it's side however that table makes an excellent wind break, and coupled with a hole dug with the hatchet, it the safest and most efficient fire yet, despite the gales.

D33- Cameron hut to Comet hut

The Ngaruroro cuts right through the main devide so must be crossed. Heading back to the junction i take the Kiwi mouth route which reterns to the river upstream of Cameron and stops. The true right of the Ngaruroro is considered Maori land and the swing bridge has been removed. Its too deep to cross at the site of the former bridge, so its necessary to travel upsteam and cross above the first rapid. Its a bit of a knarly, bouldery crossing even in low flows.
The track from the swing bridge is of course unmaintained but its been recently trimmed by locals as far as the main spur, they've even used the same couler tape as me. Once onto the main spur, the track stops but its reasonably open and an easy climb up to the ridge. It does however regain 700m from the riverbed so it takes a while.
Once on the ridge it's broad, open and easy going heading SE. According to the map, the main ridgeline is on public land, but theres confusion over the issue. The summit of Te Iranga (1324m) and trig lies 500m to the west. There's a few patches of beech, but its all open and easy. Loosing altitude again, there's a well formed track through here, not the formal type, more a route kept open by locals (not me this time). Its unmarked but obvious. It runs into a series of clay pans which lead to first a 4wd track and secondly the Napier- Taihape road, popping out on the Gentle-annie summit. Its the first sealed road since the Waioeka, and its time for the next road bash.
The road descends steeply as far as the Hoodoo creek. The traffic is light, mainly logging trucks stuck in crawler and can be heard for miles, making it safe to walk down the middle of the road, avoiding the narrow verges. The Hoodoo is a vital water source for this leg, theres even a swimming hole just by the bridge, but being cooler and overcast i resist the urge for a roadside wallow. From here it climbs over a short saddle to the start of comet road. Its only 6.5km to the hut but its all uphill and seems further. It climbs steeply, gaining 300m from the road untill leveling out along a flat ridge for the last 2km. The hut and carpark are located at the roadend.
Comet hut is a shit hole, it gets the abuse typical of a road end hut. There's a missing window, thee door dosent latch from inside, no fireplace, 4 bunks and a further camp bed left outside to rot. The walls are covered in graffiti and the log books missing, there's the usefull half of a broom but it doesn't seem to of been used in a while. A no fires sign sits beside a well used fire pit- what do you expect if you remove the fireplace. Again its most useful aspect is it's water tank. It's obviously off doc's maintenance list and i wouldn't be suprised if its removed due to 'reaching the end of it's design life'.
The road may be the huts biggest enemy, but for me it was useful, enabling me bury my next food drop here, which i find behind the hut. The clouds have been gradualy building and turn to rain early evening, which comes straight in through the open window.

D31- Makino hut to Studholme Saddle hut

The wind has died off overnight. Its a cook start but soon turns into another hot day. There's no water en - route today so its necessary to carry a days worth with me. The recently cut track continues SW to the junction with the track to Mangaturutu. It seems the track cutters went that way as the track south to the tops still has snow damage. About half way up i hear chainsaws, and meet the cutters going the other way, from here it's clear.
Gaining altitude, the track enters stunted beech and eventually open tops. There's no leatherwood scrub here just open scree and alpine herbs. There's a poled route to follow tho its obvious in clear weather, junctions with other spurs are marked with good old Kaweka aluminium signs. The ridge is broad and easy going the entire way, no narrow, crumbling line to follow. It climbs steadily to Whetu (1650m). From here it drops, climbs, drops, climbs and drops before a final steep slog to North Kaweka, where its relitively flat to the Kaweka J summit. The map shows a spring to the west, but I've never been able to find it.
At 1724m, Kaweka J is the highest point in the range and the highest on this trip. On a clear day it offers stunning views. East to Napier and the coast, south to the Ruahine, West to the Kaimanawa and volcanoes, and North over the Urewera. A twin peak on the northern horizon may well be Te Rangaakapua. A mound of rocks serves as a memorial to Hereataunga tramping club members, and the remains of a trig marks the summit.
Continuing south along the range, altitude is lost more quickly. Passing Mad Dog hill (1631), a sigh labeled Stunholme hut points down a spur running parallel to the main range. The route then drops steeply west into a gully head. Studholme Saddle hut is not on the saddle, instead the valley beside, nestled in a pocket of beech at the limit of its existence. Being out the sun it's a cold spot, nicknamed snowy hollow, tho theres no snow on my visit. Its a small 4 bunk hut with an open fire, a small but reliable creek provides a water source. The last time i was here, wood was scarce, but im suprised to see the hut well stocked and the creek littered with wood.

D32- Studholme Saddle hut to Cameron hut

I've been at it for a month now. Its a chilly start to the day at 1300, but with a short distance to cover there's no need to get into it too early.
Its a 10 min walk down the creek to the Studholme Bivvy, a basic 2 man shelter, its not high enough to stand up in and 2 matresses take up the entire floor space, bivvys like this are a common feature of the Kaweka. From here a poled route climbs steeply back to the saddle. The Studholme Saddle has a reputation for being the windiest spot in the Kaweka, I've been blown uphill here on a previous trip. Its not that windy today but theres still a stiff breeze.
Continuing south i pass the track to Mackintosh hut, im only 2 hours away from home despite being in the middle of the trip, tho im not going that way. There's a good view over the Macintosh Plautoe and i can clearly see where my trap line would be. Further south i reach the summit of Kaiarahi(1507m). The obvious ridge continues south past The Tits, The Rouge, and down to the Tutaekuri river. I head NW in a big arc around the head of the Tutaekuri, eventually heading south again, it dips briefly below the tree line where Castle Camp is found. Castle camp is a tarp shelter with a tin roof and a dirt floor, the matresses have been removed from my last visit, but you could stay there if necessary. Probably the most useful aspect is it's water tank.
Back on the open tops, the ridge meanders south before reaching Kiwi Saddle, again just below the bush line. Kiwi Saddle hut is located on the saddle. Its owned and maintained by Herataunga tramping club, but open for public use. Its a tidy 8 bunker with a woodburner and tank and gets a lot of use. I've had a possum block here in the past so am familiar with the area.
From here its a bit of a grunt to the Cameron hut/ Lakes carpark junction at 1380m. The western side is bare, the eastern covered in invasive contotra pines. Taking the western ridge towards Cameron it drops reasonably steeply with a decent drop off on the southern face. Once below the bush line it meanders around 1150 untill the Cameron/ Kiwi Mouth junction. The bush is quite open, there's occasional snow damage, but nothing much, the high altitude beech seems to cope with it better.
From the junction it climbs to 1180m, where occasional open areas give good veiws down to the Ngaruroro river. For most of this trip I've been disadvantaged by heading north- south, traversing all the Major rivers upstream, the descent to Cameron is one place im glad to be southbound. The route looses 600 vertical meters over a kilometre. Its not commonly used, and serves as a high route for when the Ngaruroro's in flood. It's mainly open clay and scree, in places there's little vegetation to slow the descent, a few clay patches required carefull shuffling. After rain it would be extremely dangerous.
At the base it enters tall kanuka forest and joins the broad Cameron track which is followed though flats to the hut. Cameron hut is a standard nsfs hut and has had little modernisation. There's an open fire, 6 steel bunks and water from the Ngaruroro river. It gets a lot of use, tho only October to April. Its easy access up the riverbed, tho many parties report being stranded by the river or forced to  take the high route. The Ngaruroro is great and its a highlight of the trip. Its not a monster like the Motu/Mohaka, tho its big enough to be popular with rafters and fishermen. There's a perfect swimming hole outside the hut, and its just what i need after a long, dusty descent. The water's warm and clear, statistically it's the second clearest river in the country. Fact.

D30- Mangatutu hot springs to Makino hut

Almost a rest day. After a cruisy start and a wash with some soaps, it 1pm by the time i break camp. Its 3km back down the road to the start of the Makino track. The Kawekas were the epicentre of August's snow fall and the damage is severe even at 500m. With the tracks around Macintosh still uncut other than by me, im expecting the Makino track to be bad. However its been recently cut, well marked and impossible to loose.
It starts off quite steep, but soon adopts a more gentle gradient, tho it's uphill all the way, gaining 500m from the campsite to the hut. Its starts off in kanuka scrub, but later changes to original beech forest.a couple of open spots provide good views to the Mohaka valley and farmland beyond.
I pass the Makino biv, nothing more than corrugated iron proped up on local timber, its got a dirt floor and no water source, but would be good shelter if caught out. After passing the tracks to Middle hill and Te Puia, a 3rd sign points to Makino hut, 100m from the track in a grassy clearing. Its a typical Kaweka hut, orange painted, a Wagner stove, 6 steel bunks and a tank. It gets regular use being easy access, but there's no one else tonight.
Another great feature of the Kaweka huts is the map and description/ times of nearby tracks, something rarely seen in other places. The winds been gradualy increasing the last 2 days, by the time i reach the hut at 1000m, its quite strong.

D29-Rest day

Today was a scheduled rest day. Meeting with family, i picked up my next food supply and ate some real food. The remainder of the day is absorbed with a swim and a hot dip. An eel provides the first protein on the trip. Today marks the half way point for this walk. From now the scenery will change, I'll be out of the rivers and follwing the now well defined ridgeline most of the way.

D28- Mohaka river to Mangatutu hot springs

There's a light drizzel in the morning but it lifts as quick as it came. Theres a large bend in the river, in the name of time and distance i take a high shortcut through private land. Continuing up McVicar road i enter Mountain valley adventure centre.
There's too many people around to just walk through so i ask permission. Its looking like a no, but after a few phone calls to adjacent land owners i get permission to go thru, tho im not allowed to use the track without a health and safety induction so the route im given involves climbing a steep overgrown spur along the fenceline.
At the top i hit a forestry track which siddles the valley for a few kms before dropping back to the river. Its reasonable going from here with reguar crossings, some chest deep, the worst mid rapid but no swims. There's a hut tucked into the private forestry, i couldn't find an induction form so i stay out. The final section before the road is choked with blackberry on either side so i follow a farm track for the last km, past the private Puketitri hut.
Once onto the public Pakaututu road its an easy 2km to the Mohaka/ Ripia forks.
From here the rivers smaller, but still infested with blackberry so i siddle farmland as far as the Mahaku confluence. There's a good stock track on the river side of the fence, which would indicate its public land, but its probably not. Droping back to the river theres still a lot of blackberry, in places it's hanging out so far that its necessary to swim around it. Further up i cross the Kaweka forest park boundry, its the retern of undisputed public land and the end of blackberry. The gradient increases and the valley narrows, there's frequent mid rapid crossings and a few stong swims required. Its probably the hardest section to travel upsteam so far. The final section opens up a bit and travel is possible on banks. Bush lawyer replaces blackberry.
Eventually i reach the track to the campsite, however being cold and wet i continue straight on to hot tubs.

D27- Mohaka river (coppermine) to Mohaka river(McVicar road)

Based on the amount of footprints id say the mine gets a lot of visitors. There's a doc track leading 2km from here to Everets. Its a bit overgrown with blackberry but passable. Steel rope anchored to the rocks provides a route over bluffs. After crossing a stream it climbs a crumbling spur before descending back to river flats which are followed to the campsite.
From here i follow Auroa road for 2km to the Everts 'ford' campsite. It would be possible to go all the way to SH5 on roads from here but it climbs high and would be boring so i return to the river.
Theres 3 crossings required, while its still just as big, its slower flowing and can be swan using my pack as a buyancy aid. I get to a bit called the Organs, where the river flows in a large oxbow, by climbing the narrow ridgeline i save about 3km of river. Going down the other side is much steeper than expected and i end up repelling on my paracord- meant for tieing up tarp. From here its 500m of wading to the Waipunga confluence. The Waipunga itself is a big river and requires a difficult mid rapid cross. Above the Waipunga the Mohaka is manageable, and able to be crossed without a swim.
Its easy going as far as Glenfalls- another busy campsite, where the river enters a gourge between limestone cliffs.
Im still pondering on wether to try the gourge or take the longer road route when i meet an aussie raft guide who tells me it's not possible and id kill myself- decision made.
The gourge starts off wall to wall water, but only knee deep so its possible to wade, its just 3 steps forward 2 steps back against the current. It then opens up a bit with a few stony banks, regular crossings between them, some requiring a swim. Then i see the sight i waa dreading- wall to wall water, this time out of my depth. There's not a lot of current but its too much to swim against. In the end i manage to pull myself along the edge of the rock, using pack as a float. Doable but id have to recommend the road. In anything other than low summer flows it would be unpassable, in anything other than 30deg sun in would be miserable. After this it opens up again and eventually i hear the sound of cars and trucks and the napier/taupo road appears. Another busy highway passed, and this time i walk underneath it, not even a crossing required.
There's 2 more river crossings untill the end of the gourge. McVicar road follows the Mohaka on the true left. Whilst theres some good campspots here i decide to get some easy ks in on the road. Its about 3km to the McVicar bridge. Unfortunately theres no great campspots here and i end up on some fine stones right by the road, lukily its very light traffic. Im only about a foot above the river so it better not rise. It seems more like a place you'd take the dog for a crap than a campsite, but it'll do. The wind picks up and cloud comes in.

D26- Lower Te Hoe river to Mohaka river(coppermine)

Its going to be another hot day. Im usually cold in the bivvi but last night I had to sleep with my head out - bad points - dew. From my campspot I hit 100 acre road, heading southridge. Its marked on the map as a legal road through forestry, but the forests been logged and turned into farmland. The road starts off a farm track.
I meet a farmer who confirms its a private road but dosent seem to give a shit about me being there so neither do I. The road passes a saddle before fording the ankle deep Hautapu river - the only privately owned river in NZ. It then heads up a hill past farmhouses and through a gate. A sighn states Ngatapa Station - private property, but of course i never saw it coming from the other way. From here i take a forestry track on the left which climbs quite steeply, offering good cell reception. I take an overgrown and severly erroded logging track which drops 300m to the Mohaka. Its a short bush bash to meet the river. Its in a gourge and must be siddled downstream for 5 mins.
The Mohaka would compeat with the Motu for biggest river tackled on this trip, and at this stage it would probably win. Its uncrossable below Everets, but theres a deep slow flowing section below the gourge and its an easy swim. Trying to cross mid- rapid would be game over.
From here its 3 days in the same river and as always, its upstream. Unlike the Motu the valley sides are less steep and its possible to get as far as Everets on the true right. Sevral bluffs on the true left would be unpassable. Theres a lot of blackberry/gourse in this section which at times makes travel tricky. First up theres some steep limestone bluffs which require a steep climb - hands and feet. After reaching a well trodden cattle trail, this can be followed through regen farmland untill its safe to retern to the riverbed.
From here its mostly bloderhopping with a few sections of sand and a bit of wading, no crossings required. The sides are all private, tho most bush, and while its not exactly a wilderness its still a good walk. A few bluffs require scrambles, but the dry rocks grippy and the rivers deep enough to catch a fall. With temperatures into the 30's, regular dips are essential.
I go as far as a disused coppermine, nothing impressive, and set up camp nearby. Whilst its not the sandy terrace under a large Toatra that i was hoping for ( thats accross the river), there's just enough sand for the bivvi. The sandflies are bad. I could of easily made it to the doc campsite at Everets, its busy with families at this time of year and has a fee and fire ban- not my scene eh.

D25- Central Te Hoe hut to Lower Te Hoe river

Central Te Hoe is as far south as the Whirinaki tracks go. The normal loop would be to head NW through more snow damaged forest to upper Te Hoe. I've no wish to head north or into damaged forest so i hit the riverbed. Its one of the more pleasant river walks in the trip and for once its all downstream.
  It starts off like any other, shingle/bolders and easy knee deep crossings. A short gourge requires a waist deep wade, but thats as hard as it gets. Further down it leaves the Whirinaki forest park and the valley sides become private, first podacarp and secondly post logging wasteland. The river opens up into a vast shingle bed and the current is lost in its expanse. The temperature increases as it opens up and im exposed to the Hawks Bay heat. The private Charlies hut and air strip sit on a terrace on the true left, and theres another private hut further down.
The valley narrows again and swimming holes appear, providing a relief from the heat. It enters an impressive bolder garden, some the size of a small house, and its possible to cross the entire flow, jumping from rock to rock. Below this it opens out again to easy shingle. Eventually the pines and few remaining pockets of podocard dissappear and are replaced with Kanuka scrub and parched farmland- welcome to Hawks Bay.
I go as far as the end of 100 acre road. Whilst the river bed would be deemed a public access, its isolated by private land and i get the impression trampers and campers would be less than welcome.
Unfortunately after looking around the only bit of sand suitable for camping is right by the road end. The entrance to the Te Hoe gourge however is worth the 5 min walk. It flows from a sedate braided river into a slot between 400m walls of rock. I've heard people raft this section tho walking it probably wouldn't be much fun.

D24- Rodgers hut to Central Te Hoe hut

Today was meant to be an easy one, covering a decent distance, all on well maintained tracks- yea right. Leaving Rodgers the benched mtb track continues south for another 8km to Mangakahika hut. Pumice now dominates the soil and is present in all slips and where the track cuts into the vallyside. There's a bit of snow damage, whilst it's nothing serious it wouldn't be much fun on a bike.
There's a campsite about a km in with picknick tables and a shower block, heated off a wet back, tho with the size of the tank it would take hours to heat so i pass. Mangakahika hut is located 5 mins off the main track in a clearing in the beech. 8 bunks, woodburner and tank. With only a recomended 3.5 hours to go, i have a long lunch.
The mtb track ends here and a standard tramping track continues. A sighn states it has been 'reclassified' as a route due to snow damage and to increase expected times- deja view. Its not too bad to start with- a lot of climbing over and around, but at least there's a recently cut, benched track to retern to. Things deteriorates as it climbs to the saddle between the Waiau/Wairoa and the Te Hoe/Mohaka catchments. By the top
The track dissapers under a mess of splinterd and smashed trees. There's barely and undamaged tree standing in what last year was mature virgin forest.
There's no choice to slowly climb over/through it. Things improve as i loose altitude, and by the time it reaches the bullring creek its easy going again. There's a campsite here but with the creek dry at this time of year water would be an issue. The track winds its way down the valley to the confluence with the Te Hoe river. The major crossings are bridged so dry feet can be retained.
There's a high concentration of stinging ongaonga is this valley. There's warnings in the huts about it and its the worst danger in the area. I've had a numb arm for days on a previous occasion and a severe case can kill dogs and horses. In places it's over head height and covers the track and must be detoured. I opted to wear 2 long sleeve thermals and gloves despite the heat of the day. Wearing shorts would be suicide.
  At the confluence a swing bridge crosses the Te Hoe and it's a further 5 mins to the hut. Central Te Hoe hut is large and of modern design. There's 2 seperate bunk rooms each sleeping 6 and a spacious kitchen with a large wood stove in the centre. Once a busy hut, sinse the track damage its rarely visited.

D23- Central Waiau hut to Rodgers hut

A range seperates the Urewera and Whirinaki forest parks. There's no official route between them. I've heard of a few high routes crossing the range but it would be a lot of climbing and bush bashing, and at 1300m it would probably be leatherwood or very dense forest.
The Wairoa Gourge cuts a channel through the range, providing an alternative route, however its not an easy one and probably the hardest days tramping I've done. I've walked it downstream previously to prove it was possible, but this time im going upstream which changes things a little.
  The siddle track continues for another 3 kms up the Waiau untill it forks into the Te Toatoa/ Wairoa streams. Here the track crosses a swing bridge and carries on to Te Toatra hut so i drop into the Wairoa. The first couple of kms are easy on shingle/ terraces. There's a few campspots, 1 well used by hunters with a fireplace and log table. After this the valley narrows, the sides become sheer and unsiddleable, and most of the walking is in the water. Its no more than waist deep at this stage but its colder, with my average altitude always increasing.
  There's a few geothermal springs in this section. There not as hot or impressive as the ones up puketitri road, but the best is enough for a warm shower. Some drop straight down into deep pools in the river and are unutilisable. The warms doesn't last long as there's soon a gourge to swim. Its only about 10m, but against the current so requires a resonable swim. After this it's doable untill the major forks, just slow with a few mid rapid crossings and bolders to get past.
At the forks the Wairoa continues SW and the much smaller Skips creek NW. The Wairoa provide the most direct route, coming out right by the hut, however there was a waterfall ladst time that was unsure if it would be passable upstream. I take a gamble at the unknown Skips creek.
  After about 10mins theres another waterfall created by a logjam, its less than a metre high but has a deep pool at its base and looks unpassable. My first attempt is to swim right up to the fall and climb a crack to the right, however the currents too stong and im pushed under and end up back where i started. Not wanting to turn back i try the left side and manage to get right under the log. It takes a few attempts, each ending in a spash, but somehow im able to haul myself over the log. Had my food pack not been almost empty i doubt it would of been possible. Going downsteam it would of been a piece of piss. There's another simular fall but easier then the vally opens up and its easier going, eventually the sides become climbable and its an easy bush bash up to join the Moerangi mountain bike track. Im now out of the Urewera and into the Whirinaki forest park.
Its a very easy 4km on the track to Rodgers hut, beside the placid Wairoa stream before it plunges into gourge and rapids. Rodgers is architecturally identical to Te Waiotukapiti, both made of toatra slab. There's 6 bunks, a tank and a wood stove installed in the open fireplace. Its the first hut with a European name- another sighn im getting south.
I've got my next tresure chest burried near the hut, and it's a bloody close call to find a campfires been lit less than a metre away from my burriel.

D22- Te Waiotukapiti hut to Central Waiau hut

Today was a scheduled rest day with my only plan being the 3hr walk to Central. After yesterday it's a bloody good thing as im the tierdest I've ever been in the morning. After a sleep in, gathring a bit of wood and a wash in the river, its 1pm by the time im ready to leave. A recently cut track siddles the valley on the true left. It climbs up steeply around a bluff before dropping back to the river.
Its an easy walk, but im still struggling after yesterday, looking back im probably dehydrated, but i never felt it. After crossing a major side creek the track climbs 200m, passing Blue Slip, and dropping back to the riverbed. From here its plain sailing along a riverside terrace to the hut. The track dissapers at one point beneath head height grass but its easy to find again.
Central Waiau hut's got 8 bunks a woodburner and a tank, there's 2 doors, with one leading a perspex clad room on the end. It gets a lot more use thsn Te Waiotukapiti, and im lukily to get it to myself, especially on a saterday.
Its taken me 4.5 hours all up, and im still feeling knackered, the heat probably doesn't help. Im not going anywhere if im still like this in the morning.

D21 Manganiuohou valley to Te Waiotukapiti hut

I always knew today would be bad. Its an all day bush bash, gaining 500m then loosing 6. An nzfs sign states Te Waiotukapiti hut -8 hours. More of a concern is the 1 graffitied in front of the 8, and the words ' completely blocked '. There's no sighn of the track to start with so I head up the obvious spur. A few markers appear and its reasonably followable to the junction with the North - south Pukekohu track. The junction itself is unusual. There's a sighn, a mailbox containg a pre - doc intentions book, and a neighbourhood support group sighn ( seems unlikely ).
There's an area of scub around the junction marked on the map. It looks like it's been felled at some point in time, but never cleared, and scrub growing back through the old trunks. It's impossible to even follow a compass bearing. I head back the way I came, and siddle around the scrub through slightly more open forest. Once past the scrub i retern to the ridgeline which is now 'passable'
Occasional markers confirm it once contained a track. I've started noticing pumice in the soil- a good sighn im getting closer to Taupo.
The junction with the spur heading west isn't obvious and is easy to miss. Im not sure where the track originally went but I can confirm the spur marked on the map never contained a track. Following it anyway it soon becomes to steep and i forced to siddle to another spur. Snow damage is terrible and my feet barely touch the ground. The painfull process contines for most of the afternoon, slowly loosing altitude. The streams buffed in most of the way so i can't just drop down. Once into the lower altitude bush, at least the vegetation becomes more forgiving.
Its almost 6.00 by the time i reach the stream, theres a potential campspot here, but im keen to get to the hut. The Te Waiotukapiti stream is like any other, tho further down well maintained tracks appear on either side and its reasonable going to the confluence with the Waiau.
The Waiau is comperable to the Waioeka only smaller. Its the main drain of the southern Urewera, flowing out to Wairoa.
Its about 10mins upstream and 1 knee deep crossing to reach the hut. I finally drag myself in by 8pm. All up 12.5 hrs from the campspot and another 3 from the lake. An outdated and inaccurate sighn states lake Waikaramoa- 10 hrs.
Te Waiotukapiti hut is an original Toatoa slab hut, built from materials milled on site. Its had a steel surround added by doc and a recent paint job. Graffiti dates back to the early 60's. 6 bunks, open fire and tank, its also my first orange hut- the couler they should be.

D20 Te Tatia o makora campground to Manganiuohou valley

It's amazing how a clear sky can suddenly turn to rain. It's less amazing when it then rains all night. Even less amazing is a ute full of retatrds (aka Tuhoe) turning up at midnight with spotlights and a radio on full blast. Picking the campsite across the river would of solved half my issues.
Its a clear sky in the morning but everything soaked and not going to dry in a hurry. Best plan- pack up wet and hopefully dry later. Another long day. Continuing back down the road it's an easy 3km to the Hopuruahine bridge. Theres a track starting here but there's no sighn and the first markers have been removed. I get the feeling doc dont want people to use it as it bypasses the start of the great walk. For me it bypasses a big bend in the road. It actually starts about 50m back from the bridge. Once on it it's marked and sidles the river for a km before joing the track where the river exits into the lake.
Its about 15km along the Waikaramoa great walk to my turn off. Theres 3 huts along the way but without a booking and $35 theres no way il be using one, and they check, daily. On a previous trip they even tried to fine me for camping within 500m of one. Politics aside the track is second to none. There's bridges over every stream, board walks over every swamp and steps on every hill, they even mow the grass on the grassy sections.
Theres a slip part way along and i find the first section of tracks closed, explaining why i haven't seen a sole. The advised methord- a water taxi around the whole section. The challenge for me is not getting seen by the boats.
After the first section the track becomes 'open' again and the crowds appear. The track turns to mud. The smell of sunblock. I pass a hut warden mowing the lawn.
The suns out and there's a slight breeze. Despite the remaining ground to cover, it essential to stop for an hour and hang everything up to dry. Having not washed sinse the Waioeka, a dip in the lake is required.
Whatever was causing me a sore ankle a few days ago has been slowly coming back. I don't know if its got wore today or its the heavier pack from my resupply putting more pressure on it. Either way im having to hit the pain killers quite hard to keep walking.
Eventually passing Maraunui campsite i reach the turn off to Manganiuohou. A doc sighn states Manganiuohou valley 3hr. A piece of moldy laminate paper above says the tracks been badly damaged by snowfall and to double times. It's aready 3pm and I've gone further than most great walkers. Its starts off not too bad. Theres reguar permalot markers and the occasional doc triangle. Its quite followable up the obvious spur to the ridgeline. After this its a bit hit and miss and it's easier to follow the compass in the open forest.
Locating the spur down the otherside it's not too bad, tho there a lot a large windfall to be navigated near the bottom. On reaching the river its bluffed in and carefully scouting is required to find a safe route down.
The Manganiuohou river is unlike any other so far. Its flows in a single channel of slippery bedrock between its forested sides. The water has a teal stain and looks uninviting, there's no shingle, sand or possible campspots on the banks. Its slightly reminiscent of the Mangamatane but looks morw like something you might find in Northland/ Kaimi ranges.
If you're carfull you can jump from rock to rock to cross and avoid getting wet feet. Which are final dry. There's a clearing tucked into the beech forest where a major side creek comes out. Its a bit lumpy but that's what a sleeping pads for. Theres no shortage a firewood but findind some that will burn is another question. Its another clear night, and if experience is anything to go by im expecting rain. Spilling half the dinner in the fire is mildly annoying.